top of page

Forum Comments

[Prusa MINI+] Filament Feed Issue
In Support
Hiro
Oct 13, 2023
Hi Bill, Sorry for the delay in contacting you. Appreciate your many advices about Mode 1. I tried changing the inner diameter of the tube from 2.0mm to 1.9mm (couldn't afford capricorn tube), and filament materials (PLA, PETG), and adjusting the tension of the extruder, the nozzle temperature to form the thinner filament tip. However, due to my inability to do so, the filament stopped flowing after the second layer while printing, or the filament got stuck in the hotend while changing. So I decided to use 3DChameleon in not mode 1 but mode 3 when integrating it into the PrusaMINI+. The filament path is longer, so it takes more time for that loading, but this mode does not require many adjustments, and with a few adjustments to Gcode, the printing and filament exchange is stable. When unloading the filament, even if I change the temperature, a clean tip is not formed, so the forming motion may need to be improved (or 3DClippy). This change allows me to enjoy multi-color printing on my 3DChameleon without frustration. Also, I use a Prusa stock extruder so this mode is adaptable for fast printing with input shaper (5.1.0-alpha1 firmware). I understood through experience your description of these modes. 1) Loader/Unloader Mode ... this is the easiest method of installation, but is a little slower. 2) Direct Drive Mode ... This is a harder installation, but allows for much faster color changes. (Source: https://www.3dchameleon.com/mk3-mode-2-gcode-generator) I will continue to make adjustments for better printing. Thank you for such an interesting product. Looking forward to future updates. 4-color object, printed in eSUN PETG with Prusa MINI+ & 3DChameleon Layout: 3D printer, 4 filaments and 3DChameleon Object and wipe tower 3DChameleon logo keychain
Content media
0

Hiro

More actions
bottom of page