3D Chameleon

Im new to Printing just a month...Ive enjoyed it alot and have made some cool things...I have a Ender 3v2, with cr bed leveler, and aluminum extruder drive feeder upgrade. Picked up the the 3d Chameleon. tried it with the cura, I couldnt get it to work. would print first color then wouldnt load. seemed to back everything out. wouldnt feed. didnt work, and now trying it with prusa. Ive gone through the gcode in prusa, updated it. gone through and tested the switch questions.. 1. Where does the filiment need to be in the tubes at the start of a print? at the hot end? at the drive motor? just in the "Y"? 2. Where does the filiment need to be in the "Y" ? Ive heard ya say a point in the video, but could you post a pic and point to it? 3. Does the PFTE coupler and tube need to be installed? its not on the instructions to do? just saw a video of the installation. 4. I believe I have the right distance set in the code for unload and load.. but I havent seem a video on how to get the measurement to make sure. Ive tried to start the test bmg print, with the filiment at the hot extruder end and the first color printed, and when it unloaded it stoped moving filiment once out of the extruder drive motor. then it would back up filiment for the next color. no filiment would load after that. Ive tried with the filiment in the Y and it would not load the filiment. Had the filiment at the gears of the extruder motor. it wont load. also when the printer self levels Gcode29 on the back leveling points its pushing the limit switch for a period of time. table 235mm X-114/Y- 229-----got from beta generator length is 445mm reload and 475 unload-----this lenght is from the hot point to the gears. time set to 8 Ive watched the videos a few times and re-ran sections of them and taken notes, but still must be missing something. thanks In advance! Dave

1) Is there any way to have a dual connector extruder that doesn't catch onto the Z axis lead screw? For now I've just rotated the entire extruder 90 degress, but I think that comes with the issue of too much of a bend in the bowden tubes in a couple spots. Or, is there a way to hook 3DChameleon up just a regular single connector? (but I imagine this way, feeding the filament back into the extruder, it would more than likely not line up with the tiny hole and not feed at all. This happens to me all the time when I try and do it myself, even with a diagonally-cut tip...) 2) So no go at all with Cura when it comes to 4 colors? I mean, we're given a Cura profile for the MK2 4 colors, but since Ultimaker printers only have at most 2 exturders, the purge tower plain-out doesn't form right with more than 2 colors. I searched quite a bit to find a solution to this, but unless there's a secret hidden plug-in that fixes this, I couldn't find anything other than Ultimaker employees saying "Sorry bro, we don't need more than 2 colors, so deal". I've always used and liked Cura, and I've been trying to use Prusa instead, but the interface is....soggy garbage compared to Cura. It's tempting to just model my own purge towers and use Cura, but that's obviously extra work. 3) Finally, where exactly do you feed the lines up to when loading up all 4 filaments into the MK2 before the print? Do you put them just past the gears inside the initial 4-way motor, or up to the Y splitter? Can't find any clarification on this. And to add to that, do I need to make sure the MK2 is set to tool 0 before I start a print, or is that handled through the g-code automatically before each print?

I am pretty new to 3d printing and already wanting multi-color and multi material. Will the 3d chameleon and slicer setting readily handle multi material? I think it is just a matter of temp change at the layer height and material change??