3D Chameleon

What is the gcode or mcode for calling the active tool number? I want to cycle the filament at the end of the print to form then end and retract just like it does for the tool change.

Here's my setup: New pre-assembled Chameleon Mk2, on an Ender 3 Pro, with Prusa Slicer. Trying to do a test print with just 2 colours. If I hold the switch for a second to home it, then 5 seconds to feed the filament I can pre-load the filament into one tube, which I'm assuming is Tool 0. Then hold for a quarter second to move to the next position and preload another tube which I'm assuming is Tool 1. I did see the trick in the video about easier loading, but I did it with the stepper to make sure it was in the correct tube and that it was indeed capable of pushing/pulling the filament. I stopped both filaments about an inch before the Y adapter. There's nothing going through the Y adapter to the printer's extruder. I used the gCode generator and put the output into Prusa Slicer's Tool Change gCode. When I go to print, lots of stuff starts moving, but nothing actually happens. The printer homes and gets ready, the bed hits the button a couple times, the display says it's doing Chameleon tool changes and the Chameleon stepper start going, but neither filament moves at all. While the stepper is going I can easily pull the filament in & out, it does not feel like the Chameleon is gripping it at all. So here's a bunch of questions: 1) Is there a picture somewhere showing which hole belongs to which tool? 2) Is the filament in the correct starting position? 3) I've never used Prusa before, I usually use Cura but I don't believe it can support 4 extruders (happy to be corrected on that though?). When I set it up I picked my printer and left everything at default. Then I went to Printer Settings and changed the number of extruders to 4. Although I just now saw the "Single Extruder MM" check box. It is currently unchecked. I'm pretty sure I've loaded the models correctly and assigned them to extruders. 3a) Should I have Single Extruder MM box checked? 3b) Is there anything else I need to do to prepare Prusa? 4) Probably getting ahead of myself, but I left it moving while doing nothing for a few minutes and noticed it paused the printer at one point. Is that always going to happen? I was under the impression that it was an automatic process...

Posting this so others with the Max can bypass much of the initial trial and error phase of finding the right settings. Replace stock extruder arm for a dual tooth extruder, something like a BMG clone, it will solve many headaches and is worth the price even if you didn't have the Chameleon. Here is a decent tip shaping code, it gets good tips most of the time, could use a little tuning probably. ############################################ G0 E-80 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-10 F600; slowly allow it to cool G0 E1 F2000 ; blob elimination ; back to tip size G0 E-80 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-10 F600; slowly allow it to cool G0 E1 F4000 ; blob elimination G0 E-60 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E1 F4000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it G0 E-40 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E1 F4000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it ; back to 1.8 constriction G0 E-30 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-70 F100; slowly allow it to cool ############################################ 3. If you replace the stock bowden tube with a capricorn, your extruder to nozzle is 450mm. 4. Loosen the Y adapter screws, all four of them, by half a turn.