A lot of us have a similar problem. I finally fixed my by getting a Prusa XL with 5 heads.

I just rebuilt my computer, so the best I can do is a 3MF file. I can't atach it - go to my youtube woodwaker1 and look up my e-mail and send me a message and I can send you the file. Sorry that I can't attach it here

I can not attach a text of STL file that is why my first post did not go through. The word doc is the Klipper macros

I thought I had posted this a couple of days ago, but it doesn't seem to have posted. I had my switch on the front cross bar and tried to mount the 3D Chameleon on the rear. These are Klipper macros that I called from Prusa Slicer. I include the limit swith mount that I used.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm in the Kansas City MO area, no White Castles here, but a Micro Center about 40 miles away.

I was hoping that you would have more success. I still have mine sitting on a shelf, too many other projects. My Bambu AMS is slow, but works, and waiting on my 5 head Prusa XL.

That is the problem. I'll bet there is not one that will exactly fit your configuration. There are a number, that you could look at and see how hard they would be to modify. I have two Rat Rigs with APUS extruders and XG hot ends. I was still making chnges to them and never got back to figuring out how to add the clippy. One idea I had - but never pursued was to mount a universal one some distnace from the extruder and try to cut it there, but saw the problems with that idea. It seems that incorporating the y adapter and the clippy very close to the extruder on a direct drive might work. So I guess back to tip shaping? Or design a specific unit for you. Sorry if I got you excited, this is why I keep mine on the back burner. My AMS does well on the few color applications that I have, - less that 30 color changes per job - slow but reliable - Am hoping one of the 3D printing geniuses wants to tackle the 3D C it has so much promise - just needs a few tweaks

I understand your concern, I don't think it really adds much if any extra purge mateial. I'll let others that have it working comment. I think works similar to the Bambu cutter and cuts it as close to the nozzle as possible. It just eliminates a major problem with the tip not feeding. I hope to get to that being my biggest problem

I suggest you try and iplement the 3D Clippy. It cuts the filament and my understanding is the cut piece is pushed through the hot end by the new filament. This is one of the challenges that I looked at, but never got the feeding to work correctly. There are a number of designs for Creality type printers

Good luck. I got sidelined on my install and never got back. It is a good product, but would benefit from documentation and getting some contributors really involved. I think the 3D clippy needs to be on every system, it is just figuring out how to do it and finding the time to design and test.

These are used to replace the ones in the unit. This file is my notes on the tension spring sliders. A word of CAUTION. There are very small springs that apply tension to these. They want to be free, and will try to escape. Spares are on Amazon for less than $10 for 50. The actual replacement parts are on printables. I printed a few extra sets to use for testing. Bill has two versions one that uses the ferules and one that uses slots cut into the PTFE tube. My notes on that are also attached. I never spent enough time to finish getting this working on my Rat Rig, I have a Bambu X1 with AMS and a 5 head Prusa XL on order and too many other projects. I have tried to get a couple of my friends - Chris Riley and Greg's Makers corner to work on this with me, but we all have too many other projects. Hope this helps

Good to hear you found the problem. Here is the correct link. ( I had sent my copy_ ) My rotation distance will be wrong, the extruder I had was also geared. Probably use a stock ender extruder value. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0JBXWmRAdxn-3dchameleon-mk3-tension-tuning-sliders

Would be intereseted to see how this turns out. I had the same setup except I had an OmniaDrop direct drive on mine. Here is my printer.cfg [tmc2209 extruder] uart_pin: PC11 tx_pin: PC10 uart_address: 3 run_current: 0.650 hold_current: 0.500 stealthchop_threshold: 5 How does it run without the Y adapter? How about with the old motor -? I no longer have any Creality printers, but have worked a little with my Rat Rigs running on an Octopus mainboard with an APUS extruder. Here is the link to the tension sliders that Bill referenced https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8oN2sybev8Z-copy-of-3dchameleon-mk3-tension-tuning-sliders/edit

Paul, I just sent Bill a mod of the cutting guide for him to look at. I found it easier for me to hold the tube when cutting

I just watched Uncle Jessy's review on it. Looks like a great deal for a large format. I can't tell what software is used, and the board. What are your ideas on how to hook it up to replace the switch on the 3dC?

Great to hear. Let me know if you need help. What printer are you trying to use? I'll dust off my Klipper macros and maybe post just as a start. I also agree that a 3D Clippy needs to be part of a system to eliminate the tip shaping and loading issues. I have two Rat Rigs that I would like to use the 3D C on.

Bill has mentioned this can be done. I'm like you - please show us how, give us some examples on how to do it. Is this done via a GPIO on the Raspberry Pi, or the main board? I have put the 3DC on the back burner until I have more time to experiment, but my intention was to replace the switch with a direct connection, and use Klipper macros instead of the extensive gcode. Bill, if you could get an example running on a Voron or Rat Rig, you could open a large market, These users have well over $1k in their printers and the cost of your solution for a MMU would be minimal.

It should be possible to control the 3D Chameleon from the board, I don't know how, but the switch could be substituted by a signal from the board. There have been posts in the forum to that effect. Its the specifics that need to be figured out.

Gerd, what software and control board is used in the delta? I am not familial with any. I am looking at eliminating the switch by replacing it with a switch from the board or my raspberry Pi. I just need the time to figure out what to use and how to program.

Bill, thanks for the great offer. I may end up doing that. I know I have seen something in the forum, but also want to be able to connect it directly to either my Pi or my BTT Octopus and eliminate the switch.