Forum Posts

Robert Qualls
May 06, 2022
In Support
Posting this so others with the Max can bypass much of the initial trial and error phase of finding the right settings. Replace stock extruder arm for a dual tooth extruder, something like a BMG clone, it will solve many headaches and is worth the price even if you didn't have the Chameleon. Here is a decent tip shaping code, it gets good tips most of the time, could use a little tuning probably. ############################################ G0 E-80 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-10 F600; slowly allow it to cool G0 E1 F2000 ; blob elimination ; back to tip size G0 E-80 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-10 F600; slowly allow it to cool G0 E1 F4000 ; blob elimination G0 E-60 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E1 F4000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it G0 E-40 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E1 F4000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it ; back to 1.8 constriction G0 E-30 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it G0 E-70 F100; slowly allow it to cool ############################################ 3. If you replace the stock bowden tube with a capricorn, your extruder to nozzle is 450mm. 4. Loosen the Y adapter screws, all four of them, by half a turn.
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Robert Qualls
May 02, 2022
In Support
After messing with this add on for the last few weeks, somewhere north of probably 30-40 hours of attempts with it sometimes working and sometimes randomly failing even when nothing has been changed from one print to the next. It's simply too frustrating. When the device works, it's amazing and I want to tell the world about it. But the problem is it won't work most of the time. Every time I fix an issue another pops up. I've tested and adjusted so many things that while I'm sitting here trying to list the things I've had problems with I can't grab one thought out of the flurry, but I'll try, in no particular order. The Y adapter is quite frustrating and causes so many issues of getting jammed in one direction or the other. I have mostly fixed this by loosening the screws on it by half a turn, as I found suggested in one thread here on the forum. But this fix only works sometimes and it will still get jammed in it. I have a Capricorn tube installed from the primary extruder to the hotend. I can form beautiful tips when extracting the filament, sometimes. I haven't changed my extraction gcode in probably a week now and none of the tips are consistent and I have no idea why. I've tried different filament and different temps. The problem isn't getting a tipped formed, it's getting the same kind of tip repeatedly. The final straw happened just a bit ago today, I haven't touched the extraction gcode in a while, as mentioned, and yet for some random reason the printers primary extruder didn't extract the filament all the way. It literally pulled it all the way out just fine earlier today and with no changes just randomly didn't, it left about 50mm or so in the Capricorn tube. So another print failed, that's three failed prints today, unknown number of failed prints over three weeks or so. The control box for the unit has a really weird bug too that has driven me insane a few times. If for any reason the switch is pressed for more than 6 seconds or so, the entire device freezes up until it's unplugged, which obviously fails the print. This is problematic when it needs to be pressed for 5.5 seconds and the button is capable of being shifted ever so slightly when pressed sometimes. Again the key word being sometimes here. My suggestion to improve the product is this; remove the printers primary extruder, have one extruder for each of the four colors you want, these all feed into a four way splitter that is not Y's stacked, but a true 4 into 1 meeting. Have the mother boards ribbon cable that controls the printers normal extruder (that is now removed) to a four way splitter. Each of these ends goes to a 4 pole relay that is controlled by the products unit. The switch that the unit uses to select which filament to feed is instead switching which relay is active, and therefore which extruder the motherboard controls and the true four way reduces the need to shape the tip so accurately. These would exponentially increase the consistency of the unit and therefore the ability to make adjustments that stick while also simplifying the overall control process. I've been an electrical engineer for 7 years, I'm probably just going to try and implement this myself, but if you'd like to make a mk3 with this, by all means please do.
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Robert Qualls
Apr 17, 2022
In Support
Hello! I have installed my new Chameleon and have had a few problems. I had some loading issues with the filament getting caught on the extruder tension arm, caused I believe by the printed coupler being a couple of mm too high as the tube through the coupler does not line up with my metal extruder tension arm, it's just a bit too high. So I am attempting to re-print that after having modified it a bit. But here's where I started running into trouble. I decided to load filament through Chameleon 1, then switched it to Chameleon 2 manually, so that it is not gripping the filament and feeds directly into the Ender extruder, basically as though the Chameleon was not installed at all. The printing began just fine, and it ran through the button presses (I unplugged the Chameleon so it didn't react) and held the tension arm so that it didn't try to feed a ton of filament through rapidly. Once it was done with that cycle it moved to the center and began its normal printing cycle and I immediately noticed an issue. The print head will do curves quite slowly and, during these curves that it's traveling too slowly, the Ender extruder is turning extremely fast causing blobs and the filament to be ground down by the extruder gear. Faster than any other time that it would normally be turning. Then when it does straights the extruder will turn very slowly, the normal speed I would expect it to be turning, but the print head moves way too fast. I spent quite some time isolating the problem and ultimately what I found is this; if I remove the tool change G-code start and end g-code all of these problems go away and prints work exactly as they should. I am using the G-Code generator and after having watched your video on the g-code part with cura a couple of times, I can't figure out what is causing this. I would greatly appreciate any help or advice on this. I am using the most up to date Cura version as of this writing; Apr-17-2022
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Robert Qualls
Apr 08, 2022
In Getting Started
Hey there! I have been looking into this product for a while and I think I'm ready to pull the trigger. I've got a few questions so I'm not blind sided by anything. The first is, what kind of shipping times are typical? The second is, I only need to adjust the G code one time, correct? Or do I need to add it to the profiles and the adjust it based on each print? The third is, does this work with most/all filaments? Or are there some it does better/worse with? I noticed in the FAQ that PLA is referenced mostly and just want to clarify. Four, is there any specific downsides to this product that aren't noticeable at first? I don't do anything crazy with my printer, but do want to know if there's anything I should keep in mind. I appreciate any help and time!
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Robert Qualls
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