Some varients of Marlin choke if the extractor feeds too much at once. Mine doesn't and I changed it to a single number. I would actually take it a little further; Like 450mm. It's not going to hurt anything extracting beyond what's needed.

It's okay to retract more than needed. It will stop once it's fully out of the extruder until the 3D Chameleon starts retracting.

It sounds to me that the feed to the extruder is a little too long whcih would cause the 3DChameleon to grind down the filament a bit before it's drawn into the extruder. This could result in the 3D Chameleon having difficulty drawing the filament back again if that notch is present in the retracted filament.

It took alot of Googling to find the solution. This should get you there: Settings --> Serial Connection --> Behavior --> Sanity Checking --> Display Notifications for Suppressed Commands --> Never Show Notifications

Okay… I'm ready to just give up. I initially tried with the FDTI adapter I already had. Every attempt with it failed. It just couldn't see the m328p connected. Then I pulled out an Arduino Mega 2560 I had. I tried hooking it up with the Mega's ports 50-53 and also the pins 10-13 with USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING defined in ArduinoIDE code, Again, it just couldn't see the 3D Chameleon board. Yesterday, I broke down and purchased a TinyISP board, since so many have had success with it, Of course, with my luck, flashing the bootloader failed again. I even tried booting directly into Windows and used the instructions to flash the bootloader with the same results. I've concluded nothing is going to work with this board. I don't even want to hook it up again to see if MK3 still works. At this point, I'm just not interested anymore.

Yes. I had to tell OctoPrint to ignore the Tool Change error. Working outside of the normal boundries of the printer doesn't effect OctoPrint at all. Lastly, the PrettyGCode plugin gets the colors completely wrong. That's just a cosmetic thing though.

I'm still working on it. I've been unsuccesful with supplies I had on hand. I finally broke down and ordered a USBTiny. I'll post when I'm successful.

I'm using a Mac. The ATMega2560 uses different pins for programming. Pin 50: MISO Pin 51: MOSI Pin 52: SCLK Pin 53: SS The code for ArduinoISP recommends Pin 10 for Reset. I also tried using pins 10-13 and uncommented #define USE_OLD_STYLE_WIRING to no avail. I've tried it with both Arduino IDE 1.8.19 and Arduino IDE 2.3.2; Both had the same failures.

I've been trying to do this using a ATMega2560 that I had purchased awhile ago for another project. I was able to flash the ArduinoISP to the board and have the 3DC connected properly. Unfortunately, when I try, using your instructions I get the error: avrdude: Error: Could not find USBtiny device (0x2341/0x49) Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1 I don't get it! I don't even have a USBtiny device and it isn't selected in any of the menus! Using Jim's suggestion of selecting Arduino as ISP, I get the following: avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00 Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1 When i try to query the programmer with AVRDude I get the following: $ avrdude dryrun -P /dev/cu.usbmodem14401 -v -c avrisp -p m328p -t -C /usr/local/etc/avrdude.conf avrdude error: no programmer has been specified on the command line or in the config file(s); specify one using the -c option and try again So very frustrating!!!

Again, I know how to select the port but have no idea how to select the device, how to update the bootloader or flash the firmware.

Unfortunately, I'm at a complete loss. I've done extremely minimal work with Arduino. I have a FTDI232 adapter, but have little clue how it's connected or how to interface the Aduino IDE to it. Chris's video does well explaning how to do it with a UNO board with Windows, but doesn't explain at all what the purpose of each connection is. I have no clue how one would update the Bootloader, let alone send the firmware to the device. EDIT: I have the FTDI driver installed properly and avrdude does run from terminal. I haven't used it in a long time, but even then I followed step by step instructions without a clue as to what I was doing.

I can't seem to find the firmware update thread. A search was unsuccessful. Is there a way to pin these posts?

The 3D Chameleon MK3 will only require a firmware update to upgrade the controller to MK4. Any additional hardware needed to add MK4 Pro features will be listed in a Bill of Materials along with STLs to print the rest. Bill has been very forthcoming on these points.

I can't be sure how the modes will work until Bill releases the firmware. It may not require a new mode of operation.

We'll have to wait and see when Bill releases the details.

The Tool Change G-Code script created on this website has code to skip the unloading of the filament on the initial load since a reset of the 3D Chameleon would cause the first tool selection to only load the filament.

There are a few caveats you would have to overcome. First, you would have to set your initial filiment after reseting the 3D Chameleon without loading it. The reset would still have to be in the Start G-Code, but the setting of the initial filiament would have to be done in the Tool Change G-Code, replacing the initial load code, and bypassing all of the normal loading script. You would also have to change back to your initial filament in the End G-Code to prepare for the next job. This setup would require that your G-Code from the slicer will always start with T0 (filament 1), so arangement of the filament order would have to be considered before each job. Alternatively, you could unload the current filament in the Start G-Code rather than in the End G-Code. This technique would require that the 3D Chameleon is not powered down or reset between jobs, otherwise it couldn't know which filament to unload.

I suggest you check the alignment of the extruder gears in your 3D Chameleon. Check out Chris Riley's Part 2 video. You could also download my alignment tool on Printables.

It just occured to me… The easiest way to determine that your board is v4 is to check if connectors are populating all three ports where the switch plugs in. v3 boards have no connectors for the additional 2 ports.

Pressing the switch for ten pulses will cycle through the modes responding with a vibration (buzz) for each mode. 1, 2 or 3 buzzes. I expect if it has updated firmware it will also cycle to 4 buzzes.