I had the same issue. To fix it I had to change the timing of the pulses. Its super important. Check out the printer specific install section theres a few k1 installations.

I had a similar problem when I first got the chameleon. I got around this problem by inserting ptfe tubes as far as they can go on both sides. I added shorter ptfe tubes with printed couplers on the inlet side so if I had to service it or help a filament feed properly it made it easier. I also added the screen and 3d clippy. The have the k1 speedy.

So i since cleared out the gcode and started over. I previously used someone else's gcode. I used the timings that you mentioned and the x/y coordinates that you also mentioned and it appears to be functioning properly now. Thanks for your help.

i figured out my issue. For some reason when I printed the mount for the servo the opening for where the blade goes in was a little too narrow it caused the blade to have alot of drag/tension as the blade went in/out. I since fixed that and printed another one and it works fine now. I also want to note that on the K1 speedy and maybe k1c, the filament cutter gets in the way of the print head homing properly because the cutter sticks out enough so that it hits that top rim of the printer body. I took your design and redesigned it in tinker cad and it now no longer touches the body and it homes properly. Im not sure if you had this issue or noticed this being a problem?

I modified the file that i used for my .96" oled but this one supports the 1.3" screen. I don't have one to test fit so if you want to print it and try it and then report back that be great. Like i said I just hot glued mine in place.

I had a similar problem where the tubes kept falling out. When I used the tool to cut the slits on angles it was hard to do this properly because the ptfe was so dang slippery it just spun around in the tool. The slits wernt on the right sides. Honestly if someone who is crafty enough can add a way to put in ptfe couplers and never have to use that tool it would be super helpful. Anyways the way I solved my problem was applying a dab of crazy glue while holding the ptfe tube in place. I only applied this to 1 side. In the event I had to dissamble it again I could. That said depending how runny your glue is you may want to let it dry 100% before you put the 2 halves together. Also I added on the input side shorter ptfe tubes to help guide the filament in better. I found that it could be fussy trying to angle the filament in through.

The knife blade without filament does go all the way through. Is there a way to add in gcode to make the knife cut 2/3 times before filament change?

Would you mind also making a tutorial/video on how to setup orca slicer?

Edit: The issue was resolved with burning the bootloader. I selected various ones and the only one that worked was the Arduino isp atmega. Then I loaded the firmware as before and it’s working again.

I just checked and I have the .96” screen. But you could easily import that model into say tinker cad and just make a box and cut out the bigger box and then you can use a bigger screen. I would then just use hot glue like I did to secure it. Seems to work fine for me so far.

I just downloaded the model in a link from Of bills other posts. I’ll see if I can find it but pretty sure if you just search “oled” in the search engine you should be able to find it

Thanks for the extra explanation. What I noticed last night in doing this mod, I only had to drill the ptfe tube. I did notice what you meant when the filament passes through the clippy mount and into the extruder it does seem to hit the outside of the ptfe tube. I drilled the ptfe tube out with 2 different sized drill bits to get the shoulder of the ptfe tube as thin as possible. I also noted the length of ptfe tube that I used to go between the extruder gear box and the filament inlet from the clippy. Hopefully this will help others to take some guess work out. Next I plan on to try out the clippy in operation. I also will test to see how well the filament passes through the chameleon selectors and see if I have the same problem that you mentioned.

Could you show a more detailed video on the process of drilling and inserting the ptfe tube in the extrude to get a smooth path to the gears. I only have 1 shot and i dont want to mess that part up.

If the printer pushes out 100mm blob why would you need a purge block? Why not just purge enough to change the colour then resume the print?

Oh really? i would be interested in a bigger screen. Can you link me to one bill?

Hey did you get this working? Im having the same problem but I used an UNO3..

Hi I have the 3d chameleon and an arduino uno3. I followed the instructions on chris basement for upgrading the firmware to the latest version MK4. I had no errors and everything seemed to go as instructed. Right now when I connect my chameleon back up and try to operate it by pressing the button to command the filament change nothing happens but I do hear a single pulse sound from a stepper. it doesnt matter how long i press it nothing else happens.. The green light comes on the chameleon as before. Of course the chameleon was working as intended before the firmware upgrade. I want to use the screen and the 3d clippy hence the reason for the firmware upgrade. In the above article that Bill wrote he mentions the boot loader.. But the chris basement video doesnt mention this at all. So my question is what the correct way to upgrade the firmware? Do I need to follow bills instruction to upgrade the boot loader then follow the chris basement video for the firmware? what went wrong here? Below is a snippet of the firmware upgrade too. C:\Users\KEVIN PC\Desktop>avrdude -Pcom4 -b19200 -cavrisp -pm328p -v -e -U flash:w:SelectorFirmwareMk4.ino.hex:i avrdude: Version 6.3-20190619 Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/ Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch System wide configuration file is "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" Using Port : com4 Using Programmer : avrisp Overriding Baud Rate : 19200 AVR Part : ATmega328P Chip Erase delay : 9000 us PAGEL : PD7 BS2 : PC2 RESET disposition : dedicated RETRY pulse : SCK serial program mode : yes parallel program mode : yes Timeout : 200 StabDelay : 100 CmdexeDelay : 25 SyncLoops : 32 ByteDelay : 0 PollIndex : 3 PollValue : 0x53 Memory Detail : Block Poll Page Polled Memory Type Mode Delay Size Indx Paged Size Size #Pages MinW MaxW ReadBack ----------- ---- ----- ----- ---- ------ ------ ---- ------ ----- ----- --------- eeprom 65 20 4 0 no 1024 4 0 3600 3600 0xff 0xff flash 65 6 128 0 yes 32768 128 256 4500 4500 0xff 0xff lfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00 hfuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00 efuse 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00 lock 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 4500 4500 0x00 0x00 calibration 0 0 0 0 no 1 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 signature 0 0 0 0 no 3 0 0 0 0 0x00 0x00 Programmer Type : STK500 Description : Atmel AVR ISP Hardware Version: 2 Firmware Version: 1.18 Topcard : Unknown Vtarget : 0.0 V Varef : 0.0 V Oscillator : Off SCK period : 0.1 us avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.03s avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e950f (probably m328p) avrdude: safemode: lfuse reads as 62 avrdude: safemode: hfuse reads as D9 avrdude: safemode: efuse reads as FF avrdude: erasing chip avrdude: reading input file "SelectorFirmwareMk4.ino.hex" avrdude: writing flash (12426 bytes): Writing | ################################################## | 100% 14.05s avrdude: 12426 bytes of flash written avrdude: verifying flash memory against SelectorFirmwareMk4.ino.hex: avrdude: load data flash data from input file SelectorFirmwareMk4.ino.hex: avrdude: input file SelectorFirmwareMk4.ino.hex contains 12426 bytes avrdude: reading on-chip flash data: Reading | ################################################## | 100% 8.03s avrdude: verifying ... avrdude: 12426 bytes of flash verified avrdude: safemode: lfuse reads as 62 avrdude: safemode: hfuse reads as D9 avrdude: safemode: efuse reads as FF avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK (E:FF, H:D9, L:62) avrdude done. Thank you.

Thanks for the speedy and clear response bill! That seems to have been my problem. I am Using a custom mount for the switch. The one that came with the device didn’t work I couldn’t get it attached properly. That’s the reason for the difference in distances

Hey Bill, I should also note that I installed PTFE tubes on the side that the filament goes in. After banging by head at cursing this thing, i went ahead and just removed the PTFE and manually fed the filament like in your instructions. I figured out that you kinda of need to finesse the filament in with a bunch of forward/backward action. Also cutting the filament at a sharp angle and bending it slightly makes them go in. My question is, is there another way to modify this to be able to use PTFE guides on both sides? Ideally i would like to run my filament from the dry box all the way to the hot end while being "enclosed" just to avoid any issues with moisture, instead of backing out the filaments entirely each time.

Its kind of a pain i agree. Essentially it comes down to cutting the filament at a sharp angle then kinda of bending it in the direction it needs to go then force feeding it with some forwards backwards action and yelling at. The more you do it the the easier it is.