I used a USBASP, and got the same error initially. Make sure in the Tools menu, under board you have Arduino UNO selected and under Programmer you have USBASP selected then run install bootloader. If that fails again, take the usb cable out and plug it back in. Or try closing and relaunching the Arduino IDE. It’s weird how it sometimes doesn’t register the programmer.

It can be frustrating purely because there’s so many ways to do it. Search for Zadig and that’ll help you install the right drivers in windows. I’m on discord and can help with the process if you’d like. https://discord.gg/g82MX5tt

It should work the same for Bambi studio and Orca slicer. I’ve done it on both. You open the 3mf file as a project and the printer selected has the profiles applied. You can then open those to edit and save them as something meaningful to you. Then save the project and close it out. Next time you open a model to print the new printer profile will be in your list.

Thanks, Bill. I'll rest easier now that I know whats happening.

Omar, Watch this video from the timestamp 14:15 Flashing Firmware - AVR Microcontrollers - 3D Chameleon - Chris's Basement - 2024,https://youtu.be/G7YNcXE9gfU?si=Dk1nfnvanmmTQSyS&t=855 Im guessing since you were able to flash the Chameleon, your drivers and IDE are all set up. Once you've done this, select ArduinoISP as programmer and click Burn Bootloader under Tools. That should flash the bootloader to the 3dChameleon. You then need to run the avrdude commands to flash the chameleon again to MK4 firmware. Hope that helps.

Paul, I’ve successfully done this on a Mac. Where are you having problems? What board/programmer are you using?

Regarding the noisy motors, its because I was running the motors bare, without any filament loaded. As soon as I loaded filament the sound profile went back to Mk3 days.

I used a USBASP programmer which I couldnt get talking to the Arduino IDE until I tried using avrdude and it suggested I slow down the clock rate with the -B switch. I've now shorted Jumper 3 on the device which slows the clock rate down by default. Tried burning the bootloader, as Bill recommended and it worked. I then flashed the new firmware and tried testing the device and it seems to be working as expected. I have to say it does seem like the motors are noisier than they were before the update.

That’s a neat idea, mounting it on the print head. Maybe power down the printer and then manually move the head around to see where it catches or could cause issues.

Oh Dang. I’m guessing the print head hit it sideways rather than head on? I couldn’t see the switch in the photos you shared. I was so paranoid about that happening that I tried several iterations before I let it engage the switch.

The Chris Riley videos that Bill mentioned are great but he glosses over the insertion bit a little. He says you can push the sliding parts to make room for the filament (as the gear moves out of the way) but I found that incredibly hard to do once the device was mounted. The sharp tip method works way better in my experience

If you’re having problems inserting the filament into the slots on the 3d chameleon then you’re not alone. I usually take the included knife and pare the filament tip into a sharp point. Goes in relatively easily after that. I think the housing could probably be improved to include chamfers for where the filament passes by the gears to make it easier to guide it out to the other side.

Next to the printer selection box is an icon, click that and it’ll open up a dialog window. Make sure ‘Advanced’ is enabled and then just head on over to the Machine G-Code tab. Scroll down and you should see Filament Change G-Code. It should go in there. Make sure to save the profile when you’re done adding the new code.

What printer are you setting this up on? I’ve gone through the installation recently and am still tuning it for swaps etc. Happy to help.

Safe travels, Bill.