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Printer Specific Installation

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Muhaid Alnujaidi
Muhaid Alnujaidi

K1C 3DC build with autoclippy

hope everyone is doing well


I am gonna share my experiance and how I got my 3DC working after almost 3 months of tinkering and modifying on my printer trying multiple things to get it working reliably, I know probably a lot faced issue after another but hopefully this helps alot


I am gonna list things to help you build it correctly and this is not a starting guide this is for someone who already built it and followed bill's guide or someone else's guide


First thing

I highly recommend mounting your 3DC on the back of your printer otherwise it will keep dragging on the table



second thing I recommend inserting a PTFE where the filament goes in as in the picture above




You need a filament rewinder system (otherwise your filament will tangle and break) a buffer might work haven't tried that


I tried two printable rewinders didn't work well with me

so I built The Filamintalist rewinder which worked really well

I will link their github and a BOM from Aliexpress I found useful and easy to build yours

https://github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Community/ERCF_v2/tree/master/Recommended_Options/Filamentalist_Rewinder


BOM:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007331401063.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.3c9d1802TR5Sb3


the seller also sells a drybox + hygrometer








Now installing the Clippy

I got a servo from Aliexpress which was rated 7v

the mistake I did I didn't pay attention to the rotation of this servo so it was going anticlockwise and I needed it to go clock wise so I had to open it up reverse it's wires with soldering iron

I will link it just in case you want


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1943129663.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.68.3c9d1802TR5Sb3


I also needed a buck converter the 3DC couldn't provide enough voltage to it for some reason

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1943129663.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.68.3c9d1802TR5Sb3


(for the servo you need to follow bill's explanation you will need to swap some wires on the connector)

Red and black/brown go to the buck converter

Yellow/Orange goes to the 3DC for signal

I have my servo set to 7.2v wich has enough power to cut easily


the mount I modified bill's mount a little bit I added two rings just where the cutter passes so it doesn't cut the PTFE as mine was slipping alot




this is the TinkerCad file for it



I recommend adding M3 heat inserts where the servo mounts as with uses the threads will come loose (Printed with PETG) maybe ASA will work better

follow bill's method to mount the clippy it's very simple




Now even after this I had some issues where the filament won't load properly and get stuck just at the start of the extruder, I tried 2mm and 2.5 PTFEs both didn't work so what I did


  1. I removed the bowden fitting from the extruder (it's a press fit not glued or screwed)

  2. got a 2mm drill bit and drilled untill where gears mount



3. inserted a small piece of 2mm PTFE and drilled that too so the filament will have smooth passage to the Extruder gears

4 . then reinserted the Bowden fitting





then you need a PTFE around ~ 20mm from the extruder to where the servo mount sets.

now give it a test, attach a small PTFE try it out if filament's go in and out smoothly


What I do is I set my printer to 220 and use gcode to extrude through ur phone

e.g. G0 E50 F300

and it should grab the filament smoothly and then retract it all the way or just use the servo to cut it


once you're sure it goes in without an effort even when the filament is cut flush now attach the TOP PTFE with appropriate length




Something to mention

the clippy mount will bump into the Lid raiser I still haven't tried to print something, I had to remove it until I figure something out for it

the Front and the Right side raisers




now to come to the Gcode

I would like to thank Bill and Alan as their gcode really helped me build and understand mine


I use OrcaSlicer

swapping filaments should be smooth now and the issue I always had is the loading sometimes it loads and sometimes it doesn't but after trying this method it almost always works


the method I saw one of the Voron users do is they purge a chunk of filament and thy get kicked by the extruder

it extrudes around ~100mm and I set my purge tower(Flush Volumes) to 0.2 Multiplier


here is a video explaining what I mean




Make your profile and copy mine but YOU NEED TO ADJUST LENGTHS


things to note

at the moment I am loading my first filament manually I wait for the start Gcode to end I take the filament once it reaches the extruder and I feed it manually "for now"



Starting Gcode

;Start Gcode


M82 ;absolute extrusion mode

START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature]

BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature]


M106 S0 ; part fan off

M106 P1 S0 ; aux fan off

M106 P2 S0


;M104 S[first_layer_temperature]

;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]

;M109 S[first_layer_temperature]

;G28



; 3DChameleon Preload Extruder 1

; load filament 1 to extruder

G0 X206 Y216 F4000 ; move to button


; three quick button presses to cancel out any active commands


G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms

G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms


G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms

G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms


G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms

G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms


G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P3400 ; wait for 7 pulses

G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P2000 ; wait for it to home


; select T0

G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P550 ; wait for 550 milliseconds

G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P2000 ; all done


; load T0


G4 P500

G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button

G4 P18500 ; load

G0 E25 F2070 ; <<<--- adjust this E value to tune extruder loading

G0 E20 F250

G0 X220 Y210 Z.2 F1000; move to extruders assigned purge line

G92 E0

G0 Y0 E100; purge the extruder.

G4 P2000 ; all done

if your starting filament isn't T0 then just make sure before you print to change the press time on the starting Gcode (I highlighted it in Red)


Machine End Gcode

; End Gcode



G92 E0

; go to holding position to unload the stock extruder

G0 X206 Y216 F10000 ; <<----- EDIT THIS LINE TO SET THE INITIAL LOCATION OF THE BUTTON


G91 ; move to relative mode

M83


;

; add tip shaping here


G92 E0;



; MY TIP SHAPING

G0 Z2 F500


G0 E-20 F3000 ; retract quickly to cold zone

G0 Z3 F500

G0 E-2 F100



M107 ;


G0 Y4 F2000 ; press button

G4 P2900 ; wait for 6 pulses

G0 Y-4 F2000 ; unpress button

G4 P2000 ; wait for it to cut filament


G0 E60 F250 ; push out molten filament


G92 E0


G0 Y4 F2000

G4 P19200

G0 Y-4

G4 P400


G90

M83

BEEP

END_PRINT

Before Layer change G-code (similar to default)

Change Filament G-code


I hope this was helpful for K1s out there

Excuse my english I hope I delivered my message clearely


share with me your thoughts and questions



now here are successful prints I did ranging from 30-500 color changes

I know the bottom looks messy I need to make a Poop Collector xD














476 Views

Would you mind also making a tutorial/video on how to setup orca slicer?

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