Hey Folks,
I know a lot of you have been waiting for it, so here's the first batch of upgrades for the Mk4 Pro system.
In this first batch, we're setting it up for the future. Two updates are included (plus a lot of under the cover stuff) that will allow you to a) add an OLED display to your 3DChameleon, and b) Add the Auto 3DClippy filament cutter to your printer.
Let's start with the firmware. Our Firmware Update thread has been updated to include the new Mk4.0 Firmware. This firmware will be installed exactly as the previous ones, however, there is one additional step you need to take BEFORE you install it... and that is to burn the new bootloader from the latest version of the Arduino IDE to your board before you install the firmware. Once you do that, you'll follow the exact same instructions as previously. If you fail to do this step, you'll find that your unit responds very slowly. If that's the case, you just need to redo it and make sure you burn the new Bootloader firmware FIRST.
Ok... so let's talk about installing these to updates.
1) The OLED display. You can use any 4 pin OLED display that supports the 1306 interface. This is an I2C interface and requires two wires for the I2C Bus (SDA and SCL) as well as power and ground.
You can find the required components to hook it up here on Amazon:
OLED Display (1x): https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-SSD1306-Self-Luminous-Display-Raspberry/dp/B072Q2X2LL
Jumper Wires (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78
To connect it, you'll want to use 2 3 pin Molex KK connectors. Here's a picture of the wiring. Blue is the SDA line, Green is the SCL line, Red is the V+ and Black is the Ground. Once connected, powering on the 3DChameleon should display the 3DChameleon text.
The OLED display can be snap fit into the plastic cover provided on Tinkercad, or you can use it as a model to design your own.
2) Auto 3DClippy Filament Cutter. The servo uses standard servo motors and wires, however, the V+ and signal wire on the servo connected need to be reversed. The servo wire will plug directly into the ICSP header on the 3DChameleon's electronics as shown here:
And you need to plug them into the ICSP header here:
Here are the Amazon links for the necessary parts (Only the M3x10 screws, super glue and 20kg servo are not included in the 3DChameleon Kit):
Utility Knife (1x): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXTP9M9
20kg Servo (1x): https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Motors-Waterproof-Steering-Control/dp/B073F92G2S
M3 x 10mm Allen Head (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screws-Bolts-Thread-100pcs
Loc-Tite Super Glue Gel (1x): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1364076-Super-Squeeze-Liquid/dp/B0006HUJCQ
PC4-M10 PTFE Connector (2x): https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG
Note, in order to use the plastic control horn in our 3DClippy design, you'll want use the 4 way plastic control horn and cut off 3 of the arms. This will fit directly onto the servo shaft and allow the blade holder to move in and out of the cutter. Also note, you'll want to power on the 3DChameleon with the servo attached... cycle it by loading/unloading filaments a few times to make sure the servo ends in the correct "blade out" position before you attach the control horn. That way no calibration is needed. Also make sure you use the provided knife blades and glue them into place all the way into the blade holder.
Printable files for both of these can be found on Tinkercad. Just search for 3DClippy or 3DChameleon.
Bill