Ok... I don't know why Any cubic did that... But it's easy to fix. We can move the bed very slowly instead with the proper timing. I'm on the road right now, but when I stop this evening, I'll forward you a sample that we used.

My guess is your drive gears or your cam are not aligned correctly. Bill

Make sure there isn't anything mechanically wrong with it. Bill

The only setting of the 3DChameleon is the Mode. Cycle 10 pulses to switch to the correct mode. Bill

We have videos on our website on how to install it. Because the system is universal, there isn't a one size fits all installation process, but our play list covers most installations. As for ordering, you simply order it off our website. Bill

It's not just Ok, but highly recommended. Bill

That's interesting, what email address are you sending them to? Try me directly at bill@3dchameleon.com. As for the Neptune series, there are several folks who have installed it on them. The Elegoo Neptune series, in general, are very similar to the Creality Ender series of printers, so are quite easy to install it on. In fact, our installation video is a Neptune as well, but a Bowden system as opposed to your direct drive, but that doesn't really make a big difference. I have a PTFE coupler designed for that extruder. Bill

What printer is this on? That method of changing the steps has been being used on Creality and Prusa printers for years... So it is something recent that has changed. Bill

The only files included are the upgraded files, all the rest are the same. The spacer is just a generic NEMA 17 2mm spacer from Thingiverse. Bill

I think the easiest thing would be to home the X axis. Once you've restored the correct stepper values, it should have no issue with that, but I have no idea how the X Min is getting set, it's not any of that GCode. G28 X; Rehome X Axis Bill

Wow! That's awesome. Have you tried it with different filaments... Also, what kind of filament is that? It looks perfect. Bill

When you download from Tinkercad, just select the model you want to export... And it will just do that one model. If you don't have any selected, it will download the entire design surface as a single STL. Bill

You should not need to shape the tip... Just retract the filament and cut it... Then let the next load push the cut tip back in minus the remaining 15mm. Bill

The E value is always in mm. (Only P or S are time values.) All you need to do is tune that value up or down to stop it from loading too far and causing it to extruder before it is supposed to. Bill

But it is the fastest way!

You only need to home the 3DChameleon before you start. You can optionally add that to your start GCode with a 7 pulse command. The tool change GCode will automtically load the first filament needed (without trying to unload) and the all subsequent loads will unload the previous filament first. Bill

You know... Looking at this GCode, I don't see anything wrong except you don't have the proper spacing in the commands. Each parameter needs white space between them for Marlin to see it. Make sure the P and S parameters have a space between them and it should work. Bill

You don't need to, just use our profile from Printables... It's already set up. But, all you need to do is push a piece of filament into the extruder the nozzle, then pull it back out and measure the distance by looking at the imprint of the teeth on the filament. Bill

I've never had issues with a BMG clone... They're very reliable once you fix any issues with their drive gear alignment (see my video on that.). They're very forgiving when it comes to tip shape or stringing. I have several sample printers in videos with them installed and have never had an issue on any of them. Bill

The selector is always powered to maintain it's locked position... But if the extruder motor is also warm, that indicates that it is in-between commands and is holding the filament. However, there is no harm... The motors are rated to 85C... Which is way hotter than normal "warm" temps. If you think it's too high, you can turn the POTs on the motor controllers counter clockwise just a little. Normal settings are between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock. Bill