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Trent B.
Jun 04, 2024
In Support
I'm at the point where I've got the 3D Chameleon mounted, tested the switch, loading, unloading, etc. On first print test, it did not go well as hoped, and now on test version 7.   With the first print test, T0 did not load, but I let it continue to print. When T0 unloaded, it unloaded about 140mm too far. T1 loaded and actually printed (hoorah!). T1 backed off about 25mm farther than T0. T2 and T3 attempted loading, but did not load, and as with T0 and T1, they backed off 140mm and 165mm respectively too far.   Originally, I had aligned all of the tips to be at the same distance (as per a comment made by Bill on Chris Riley's Part 3 Video). Hence the tape markers on the tubing at 25mm from the top of the "Y". Help needed: Where do I need to tune this back-off distance? I don't see anything that stands out in the generated code that should be adjusted unless I'm simply overlooking it. After running through test v7 and many adjustments to the E values for loading, it was pretty clear things were not working. No more filaments would load into the extruder. I took everything apart and discovered first that there was a very short piece of red filament (T2) and just behind that, the blue filament (likely from the first test print) left between the cutter, direct drive extruder and the hot end.   At this point, I'm not sure what steps to take. If the filament is getting cut and left inside the extruder, that seems to be a problem I don't know how to resolve.   Otherwise, I can continue to tweak the tuning, but am not sure I'll get far with that, noting the issue above.   As far as my approach to tuning, attached are two files I saved to disk, the primary modifications I had made were to the E values for loading (until I discovered the blocked extruder issue). I've watched all of Chris's Riley's videos and haven't found anything that might help resolve my printer's issues. Any insights would be welcome and appreciated.   Trent
Tuning Guidance Needed content media
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Trent B.
May 22, 2024
In Support
I've created a short gcode test for loading and unloading the different filaments prior to going all in. It seems to be working fine with one small exception: The seconds to load is 7 seconds, but to unload, I have to go at least 8 seconds to get it back to it's original position, although short about 10mm (this is a secondary issue to deal with later). Once I've loaded the last filament, I manually press the button for 6 pulses. 9 out of ten times (probably more frequently than not), the OLED just displays "Cutting..." and nothing happens (other than the cut). Where T3 was the last filament loaded, and is the current filament, if I press the button while it still shows "Cutting...", it will unload T0, not T3. Totally unexpected. Once in a while, it will ask to unload the current filament, which is what I think I should be expecting. Is this the correct behavior for 6 pulses (Unload current and Home), where it should request a button press to unload, and then unload the current, in this case T3, and not T0? Here is a link to a video showing the OLED with audio (can't seem to imbed it here, so here is the URL) https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-ddfWNb09bA Here is my script for review: G28 G90 M83 G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28O ; Home optionally if steppers were shutdown M420 S1 ; Activate leveling ; Press the button 3 times to reset the 3D Chameleon G0 Y376 F2000 ; Move close to 3DC button G0 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 Y376 F2000 ; Move off 3DC button - reset to CLEAR G4 P4000 ; Pause for 4 seconds before homing ; Home the Chameleon G0 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P3360 ; Wait 7 Pulses, or 3+ seconds G0 Y376 F2000 ; Move off 3DC button G4 P5000 ; Pause for 5 seconds to complete homing of Chameleon G0 Y300 F3000 ; Move farther away from the button ; Load filament T0/1 G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Move to 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button once to set current to T0 filament G4 P500 ; Wait half second for button press G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P7000 ; Wait 7 seconds to measure filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button ; Load filament T1/2 G4 P5000 ; Pause for 10 seconds before loading next filament G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Move close to 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to set current to T1 filament G4 P1000 ; Wait full second for button press G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to unload T0 G4 P8000 ; Wait 8 seconds to unload filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P7000 ; Wait 7 seconds to load T1 filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button ; Load filament T2/3 G4 P5000 ; Pause for 10 seconds before loading next filament G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Move close to 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to set current to T1 filament G4 P1500 ; Wait full second and a half for button press G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to unload T0 G4 P8000 ; Wait 8 seconds to unload filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P7000 ; Wait 7 seconds to load T1 filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button ; Load filament T3/4 G4 5000 ; Pause for 10 seconds before loading next filament G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Move close to 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to set current to T1 filament G4 P2000 ; Wait full 2 seconds for button press G0 X241.5 Y376 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G4 P150 ; Wait for 150ms G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button to unload T0 G4 P8000 ; Wait 8 seconds to unload filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button G0 X241.5 Y380 F2000 ; Press button G4 P7000 ; Wait 7 seconds to load T1 filament G0 Y300 F2000 ; Back off of 3DC button Is this a valid test, or am I wasting my time? I've followed Chris Riley's Part 3 video, which still looks to be focused on Mk3, rather than Mk4. So there are details there that don't seem to apply, like "three distinct button presses" to reset the 3D Chameleon. One quick press does a "Clear", which is sufficient in my opinion. Trent
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Trent B.
May 22, 2024
In Getting Started
Are you struggling to get a smooth slot for the blade on your Auto Clippy like I have, so it doesn't bind? I found a trick that might help someone else. Using a thin feeler gauge, in this case a 0.70mm gauge, I used my soldering hot air gun to heat it up (around 662 degrees), and then worked it through the slot several times. I did this until it worked through smoothly and left a decent slot. The blade now slides through smoothly and does not bind.
3D Auto Clippy Slot cleanup content media
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Trent B.
May 07, 2024
In Support
I've updated the firmware from Mk3 to Mk4, and added the OLED display. I'm getting unexpected results when pressing the switch. More often than not, when I press the switch, I get a "No Command" response on the display. It then displays "Clear", and finally it displays "Idle" a few seconds later. Aside from that, I can only seem to get it to go to T0 one of ten times, if that. No matter how long I hold the switch, that is all I can ever get most of the time. Several times I get a message "Press to load T0", or "Press to unload T0", and then it may show "Cutting". Not sure why it would show cutting if I don't yet have the servo attached. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, so any ideas would be helpful. Feeling pretty confused. 😥
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Trent B.
Feb 20, 2023
In Support
I’ve finally got this installed after a few months, but have run into an issue. The first filament is not retracting far enough back to the starting point, so when the next filament loads, it is jamming up against the previous filament. I have read through many posts and search through all posts for “jam” or “jamming”, and not found a solution to this issue (as far as I can tell). And at the same time, did not find anything in the MK3 Slicer code that might be related. My setup is an Ender 3 v2, with a few mods, including a direct driven extruder. I’m considering going to direct drive with the 3D Chameleon, but am hoping to get this working before I go that path. Before adding this to my setup, I was using Cura Slicer, but have since moved to PrusaSlicer out of necessity :) The distance from the tip of the extruded nozzle to the center of the stepper motor/drive wheels is 108mm. 4mm was added to that value assuming that the diameter of the drive was close to that, so used 112mm as the distance in the code generator. As best I can tell, this has worked as the first filament has loaded and I’ve printed in one color successfully. Some guidance on addressing this issue would be appreciated, if not a link to a post that I may have missed that addresses this issue. I can post a video on the filament change issues if that would be helpful to see where the filament gets ”jammed up”. Machine: Creality Ender 3 v2, Creality Direct Drive Extruder, Minimus Fan Shroud 40x20 Noctua fan, and 80mm fans for MB/PWR. Firmware is MRISCOC/Professional. Octoprint (on Windows 11) and Octo4A (on Samsung S10) used alternatively for printing.
Jamming at the Y content media
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Trent B.

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