In one of the videos it says the button location should be the bed length minus a mm. ie Ender 3 bed 350. However, in another video you show Auto homing the bed and then counting the distance from its home position until triggering the switch. Is this a difference in the MK2 and MK3 versions? I want to make sure I add the correct values. Also not sure what the ramifications of getting it wrong. Will the bed ram against the switch and not stop, if the value is too high, if to low never will reach the swtich etc.

I tried to find a video on switch placement on an orginal ender 3 with the smaller extrusion on the y axis. Will the switch still work here or you mention the x axis in one of the videos. What is your recommendation?

In my kit there was an adapter with female round connector (looks like power) and 2 wire connector with screw down terminals. What scenerio would this device be used? I thought maybe direct power from printer instead of needing a wall plug. However, if that were the case it would be more likely a male connector to match with the electronics box. Just curious.

Is it safe to say if I slice the code in Prusaslicer (with added Gcode) and push to that job to Octoprint. The Tool changes and filament swapping should work without intervention? I realize this sounds like a simple question, I just know sometimes things are not as simple as they appear.

I ordered my new unit. Waiting for its arrival in the meantime, I thought I would ask a question. I have updated my Ender 3 Pro with a Copperhead® Heat Break. Will this have any affect on the use of the MK3? I was watching some videos and it mentioned the units working with bowden tubes that go all the way to the back of the nozzle. I am just trying to think ahead about what I might need to change or update?