Hi all, I'm getting some issues with filament loading through the extruder (downstream of the chameleon quad filament junction). I'm using an all metal dual gear extruder and it seems the filament loads into the gears but often causes the stepper motors to skip before exiting the extruder. The extruder does well with single filament when manually loaded, but doesn't seem to like it when fed automatically. Any recommendations on better extruders to use with the ender 3 V2? Also, I was curious about using the 3Dchameleon directly for the extruder function on the output side of the quad junction. It sounds like this was the original intended use on an ender 3 but resulted in complications while troubleshooting? v/r, Glen

***NOTE*** I've since applied Bill's fix and it works great for reaching the switch beyond the firmware's normal range limits... so see his answer below! I use the Creality 3 V2 and one issue I've run across with the BLTouch leveling firmware I am using is that it limits x and y axis travel to 220 mm and yet the BLTouch leveling routine slews to the extremes of both x and y axis, thus interfering with the switch used to control filament changes. Given that bed leveling routine is only done at the start of a print I figured one alternative to trying to find and/or compile another version of the firmware with extended limits would be to put a momentary push to open bypass switch inline with the green wire from the limit switch. I generally observe the first layer being printed anyways and so it wouldn't be that big of a deal to press a button that disconnects the signal wire (green) returning from the switch during the bed leveling routine. Anyways, that was my thought on how to get past the issue. I may need a high value pull-up resistor between the red and green wire and perhaps a small capacitor to avoid a floating signal line and switch bounce. Has anyone else running a BLTouch used this method? Edit: Think I may have a similar yet more elegant solution that uses a single momentary SPDT switch and cutting the Normally Open connection on the bigtree-tech switch board. That way I'm reusing the existing pull-up resistor and capacitor on their board. I'll take some photos of the mod when I have it complete.

I've just started using my Ender 3 V2 printer and I've been trying to make figure prints which seem to be challenging due to the need for supports and the scarring that occurs when using the same material for support and desired object. Has anyone had good experience using 3DChameleon to print PVA water soluble supports so that the final product needs less post work? I'm curious if the 3DChameleon is best used for color switches among similar materials or if PLA and PVA can be both loaded easily?