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Bill
May 18, 2024
In Getting Started
It's just come to my attention that OrcaSlicer has broken their multi-material support in a big way. Let me start off by saying that we only officially support PrusaSlicer, and only test on PrusaSlicer. There are other slicers that are forks of PrusaSlicer (like SuperSlicer, BambuStudio, OrcaSlicer and others) that sometimes work and sometimes don't. However, we DO NOT test with them, nor do we intend to. We test 100s of printers a year in their stock configuration. We also DO NOT test variations of those printers, for example, aftermarket hotends or extruders, regard less of how popular they are. The number of variations are too huge to be able to support that. We have a generic set of design requirements and software support to be able to cover any printer out there. Where there is no PrusaSlicer software support for a printer (like a proprietary printer), we will make every attempt to help out, but can't guarantee that it will work. Our stated requirements for "any printer" are that it can use PrusaSlicer's Custom Tool Change GCode and that it uses 1.75mm filament. If those two conditions are met, then it's 99.9+% chance that the 3DChameleon will work for you. Asking that we support others is simply not an option, regardless of how popular a product/slicer is. If that slicer has a technical limitation that prevents it from working, for example, like Cura does, then there is nothing that we are able to do to fix it. This is also true for hardware, for example, we do not support Titan or SeeMeCNC extruders, and recommend you change those to better designs. If a printer supports open source slicers, then there is always a PrusaSlicer solution for it, as it's by far the most open slicer there is, and they're the only ones that are fully committed and continuously advancing our ability to do color printing. I don't know why the forks of PrusaSlicer are changing key features from the base platform, or limiting it for some reason, but if you encounter an issue with one of them, I highly recommend you go to their Github pages and post an issue to help get them to resolve it. Bill
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Bill
May 05, 2024
In Getting Started
Hey Folks, I know a lot of you have been waiting for it, so here's the first batch of upgrades for the Mk4 Pro system. In this first batch, we're setting it up for the future. Two updates are included (plus a lot of under the cover stuff) that will allow you to a) add an OLED display to your 3DChameleon, and b) Add the Auto 3DClippy filament cutter to your printer. Let's start with the firmware. Our Firmware Update thread has been updated to include the new Mk4.0 Firmware. This firmware will be installed exactly as the previous ones, however, there is one additional step you need to take BEFORE you install it... and that is to burn the new bootloader from the latest version of the Arduino IDE to your board before you install the firmware. Once you do that, you'll follow the exact same instructions as previously. If you fail to do this step, you'll find that your unit responds very slowly. If that's the case, you just need to redo it and make sure you burn the new Bootloader firmware FIRST. Ok... so let's talk about installing these to updates. 1) The OLED display. You can use any 4 pin OLED display that supports the 1306 interface. This is an I2C interface and requires two wires for the I2C Bus (SDA and SCL) as well as power and ground. You can find the required components to hook it up here on Amazon: OLED Display (1x): https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-SSD1306-Self-Luminous-Display-Raspberry/dp/B072Q2X2LL Jumper Wires (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78 To connect it, you'll want to use 2 3 pin Molex KK connectors. Here's a picture of the wiring. Blue is the SDA line, Green is the SCL line, Red is the V+ and Black is the Ground. Once connected, powering on the 3DChameleon should display the 3DChameleon text. The OLED display can be snap fit into the plastic cover provided on Tinkercad, or you can use it as a model to design your own. 2) Auto 3DClippy Filament Cutter. The servo uses standard servo motors and wires, however, the V+ and signal wire on the servo connected need to be reversed. The servo wire will plug directly into the ICSP header on the 3DChameleon's electronics as shown here: And you need to plug them into the ICSP header here: Here are the Amazon links for the necessary parts (Only the M3x10 screws, super glue and 20kg servo are not included in the 3DChameleon Kit): Utility Knife (1x): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXTP9M9 20kg Servo 180 degree (1x): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JFSJ32M M3 x 10mm Allen Head (4x): https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Screws-Bolts-Thread-100pcs Loc-Tite Super Glue Gel (1x): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1364076-Super-Squeeze-Liquid/dp/B0006HUJCQ PC4-M10 PTFE Connector (2x): https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG Note, in order to use the plastic control horn in our 3DClippy design, you'll want use the 4 way plastic control horn and cut off 3 of the arms. This will fit directly onto the servo shaft and allow the blade holder to move in and out of the cutter. Also note, you'll want to power on the 3DChameleon with the servo attached... cycle it by loading/unloading filaments a few times to make sure the servo ends in the correct "blade out" position before you attach the control horn. That way no calibration is needed. Also make sure you use the provided knife blades and glue them into place all the way into the blade holder. Also, if you want to use a higher power servo (i.e., more than 5V to increase the power), you can optionally use a power splitter off of our power supply and supply power directly to the servo's red/black (V+/Gnd) pins. To do that, you can use these: Adjustable Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N6WWJS Screw Terminal for 2.1mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/Qaoquda-Connector-Terminal-Headphone-Converter/dp/B07JMY5XXT 1 to 2 2.1mm splitter: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Surveillance-Adapter-Y-Cable-Security/dp/B082Y1PQ6C Then you can use two jumper wires to connect the 2.1mm jack's screw terminals to the input of the adjustable power supply, and then connect the red/black power leads to the servo to the output of the adjustable power supply. Adjust the power supply to the correct operating voltage of your servo... Warning! Make sure you don't over volt the servo. One more thing... make sure you're using a 180 degree servo... which will move the cutter through 45 degrees. If you use a 270 degree servo, the commands will move it through 67.5 degrees, but that also reduces the torque available for that move. Printable files for both of these can be found on Tinkercad. Just search for 3DClippy or 3DChameleon. The firmware and installation instructions can be found here: https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/getting-started/mk4-firmware-upgrade-instructions Bill
Mk4 Updates (round #1) content media
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Bill
Mar 06, 2024
In Support
PrusaSlicer has made an update that hides the Purging Volumes button in their latest releases beyond 2.6. To reenable the button, make sure your Printer Settings has the "Single Extruder Multi Material" setting checked. Bill
Missing Purge Volumes in PrusaSlicer content media
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Bill
Feb 02, 2024
In Support
Hey All, I just discovered a bug in the Tool Change GCode for both Mode 2 and Mode 3. The issue was a change recently made to the tool change gcode which lowered the temperature for the Creality K1 printers, but which effected all printers. There is a "Prevent Cold Extrusion" function built into some firmwares that caused the machine to not move the filament when it was commanded because the temperature was too low. The fix is very simple, simply add "M302 S0" as the very first line of the Start GCode as well as the End GCode... and then add "M302 S180" as the last line of the Start GCode as well as the End GCode. The M302 command is used to tell the printer to ignore cold extrusions. If you're running Klipper, you'll need to set the "min_extrude_temp" value to 140 in your config file. Bill
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Bill
Aug 04, 2023
In Getting Started
With Kiri:Moto and Cura, the Mk2 GCode Generator is used for the Mk3, however, the code needs to be edited to support the new button press scheme. Attached are two text files, the "Start" or "Select" Gcode files and the "End" or "Deselect" GCode. In each file, you'll see a block of gcode labeled Mk2 and another block labeled Mk3. You can use the Mk2 GCode generator with your specific machine settings in it to generate the Mk2 code... you'll then use these two files as a template to edit your generated code to match these text files... basically, you're changing the button press codes by replaceing the Mk2 blocks in your files with the Mk3 blocks in these sample text files. You'll then paste them into the extruders start and end (or Kiri:Moto's Select and Deselect) gcode blocks. You need to do that to all 8 of the blocks. Note, the end gcode is always the same for all 4 extruders, but the loading is only different by how long you press the button (to get to 1, 2, 3 or 4 pulses.) Bill
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Bill
Jan 16, 2023
In Getting Started
Here's a new version of the 3DClippy filament cutter that allows for a vertical orientation. It's installed on the SV-06, but can easily be adapted to other printers, like those equipped with the Creality Sprite extruder, for example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHTxQTIqE2o And you can download the files here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gxoYUu1SaSA-3dclippysovolsv06 This eliminates the need to do any tip shaping, which can a) reduce the headache of trying to get a particular filament to work correctly, and b) can speed up the whole process significantly. It's totally open source, so please, take it and adapt it to your own printers... just make sure you share the design for others to use! Enjoy! Bill
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Bill
Nov 01, 2022
In Getting Started
With the introduction of the Mk4 units, we've also introduced a new way to command the 3D Chameleon and new expansion capabilities. In order to take advantage of these new features, you'll need to update your firmware. You can reprogram your electronics with the new firmware by downloading the new firmware (attached to this thread), installing the Arduino environment and then running the following command from the location of your downloaded (and extracted) firmware. "\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\avrdude.exe" -v -p m328p -c usbtiny -U flash:w:SelectorFirmwareMk3.1. hex:i -C "\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" Please note, I am use the Adafruit USBTiny programmer, but you can use anything you choose... you'll need to update this command to reference your own programmer in that case. You can also use any operating system you choose, but be sure to also update the paths in the command to match your OS specific requirements. Be sure to update the "Bootloader" in the Arduino environment to insure the clock speed of the 3DChameleon is updated to the new Mk4 timing. For the Adafruit USBTiny programmer, make sure to only use the Adafruit drivers... the Zadig drivers WILL NOT WORK on real Adafruit devices.(https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-arduino-ide-setup/windows-driver-installation) Chris Riley did a great video on upgrading the 3DChameleon's firmware over on his YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7YNcXE9gfU&pp=ygUVM2QgY2hhbWVsZW9uIHByaW50aW5n Also, check out his step by step instructions here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-OkkDjHdcTeN9WLbiT6VLYRj_YzjyalHT2G0v7SsgG4 Don't forget to like and subscribe to his channel. He has other great videos on the 3DChameleon as well. Bill (PS, This Zip file contains 4 versions of the firmware... Normal (180 degree servo), Reversed Direction Servo, 270 Degree Servo and Reversed 270 Degree Servo.)
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Bill
Mar 05, 2022
In Support
In some of the 3D Chameleons, the motor current might not be high enough (specifically, the older kit units.) If you have one of these units and are experiencing issues with either the selector or the extruder motors skipping, please adjust the motor current to the 1 o'clock position for both of the motor controllers in the 3D Chameleon electronics. The steps are very simple... 1) Unplug the power to the electronics and the printer. 2) Locate the two adjustment POTs on the small stepper driver boards in the electronics. 3) Rotate them to the 1 O'Clock position. By default, they'll be at the 12 O'Clock position. 4) Replace the lid and power it back up. Here's a picture of the POTs of before and after.
Increase Stepper Motor Torque/Current content media
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Bill
Jan 01, 2022
In Support
The 3D Chameleon uses a spring tension cam mechanism using a small 2.5mm x 10mm spring and a 100% solid infill 3D Printed part with a "B" imprinted on it. That part can wear over time, or in the the worst case, can actually break. If that occurs, you can print out a new part using this file. You can print it with 100% infill using either PETG or PLA. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181728
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Bill
Dec 29, 2021
In Support
If you're using a printer with multiple physical extruders, there is an issue with the latest version of PrusaSlicer in that they're no adding a Tool (T{extuder}) command AFTER the tool change gcode is inserted. The issue is that our code is changing it to the selected code in our Tool Change, and they're then overriding it. There doesn't appear to be a way around it in their settings, so I wrote this little post processor that switches all T{extruder} commands back to T0. (If you have the 3D Chameleon on another extruder, simply edit the code to replace the T0 with your specific extruder number.) Attached is the code... simply use the following post processor command to run it: "C:/Program Files/Python38/python.exe" C:\Users\Username\Desktop\T0Only.py Be sure to replace the Username with your correct username, and use the correct location for your installation of Python.
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Bill
Oct 08, 2021
In Support
Hi Folks, On the Ender 3 V2, the normal switch mount has the switch too far towards the back of the printer. Under normal circumstances, that doesn't effect anything, but if you have an automatic bed level sensor added to it, then the two will interfere with each other. I now have my switch at 230mm on the Y axis by making a new custom switch holder for the Ender 3 V2 that extends it further forward to allow for printers with ABL as well. You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4663605 (Look in the files for the Ender 3 V2 specific one.) Bill
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Bill
Aug 12, 2021
In Getting Started
Please feel free to ask any questions, post your creations or help others out! Bill
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