Hey All, I just discovered a bug in the Tool Change GCode for both Mode 2 and Mode 3. The issue was a change recently made to the tool change gcode which lowered the temperature for the Creality K1 printers, but which effected all printers. There is a "Prevent Cold Extrusion" function built into some firmwares that caused the machine to not move the filament when it was commanded because the temperature was too low. The fix is very simple, simply add "M302 S0" as the very first line of the Start GCode as well as the End GCode... and then add "M302 S180" as the last line of the Start GCode as well as the End GCode. The M302 command is used to tell the printer to ignore cold extrusions. If you're running Klipper, you'll need to set the "min_extrude_temp" value to 140 in your config file. Bill

With Kiri:Moto and Cura, the Mk2 GCode Generator is used for the Mk3, however, the code needs to be edited to support the new button press scheme. Attached are two text files, the "Start" or "Select" Gcode files and the "End" or "Deselect" GCode. In each file, you'll see a block of gcode labeled Mk2 and another block labeled Mk3. You can use the Mk2 GCode generator with your specific machine settings in it to generate the Mk2 code... you'll then use these two files as a template to edit your generated code to match these text files... basically, you're changing the button press codes by replaceing the Mk2 blocks in your files with the Mk3 blocks in these sample text files. You'll then paste them into the extruders start and end (or Kiri:Moto's Select and Deselect) gcode blocks. You need to do that to all 8 of the blocks. Note, the end gcode is always the same for all 4 extruders, but the loading is only different by how long you press the button (to get to 1, 2, 3 or 4 pulses.) Bill

Here's a new version of the 3DClippy filament cutter that allows for a vertical orientation. It's installed on the SV-06, but can easily be adapted to other printers, like those equipped with the Creality Sprite extruder, for example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHTxQTIqE2o And you can download the files here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gxoYUu1SaSA-3dclippysovolsv06 This eliminates the need to do any tip shaping, which can a) reduce the headache of trying to get a particular filament to work correctly, and b) can speed up the whole process significantly. It's totally open source, so please, take it and adapt it to your own printers... just make sure you share the design for others to use! Enjoy! Bill

With the introduction of the Mk3 units, we've also introduced a new way to command the 3D Chameleon. You can reprogram your electronics with the new firmware by downloading the new firmware (attached to this thread), installing the Arduino environment and then running the following command from the location of your downloaded (and extracted) firmware. "\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\avrdude.exe" -v -p m328p -c usbtiny -U flash:w:SelectorFirmwareMk3.1. hex:i -C "\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr\etc\avrdude.conf" Please note, I am use the Adafruit USBTiny programmer, but you can use anything you choose... you'll need to update this command to reference your own programmer in that case. You can also use any operating ystem you choose, but be sure to also update the paths in the command to match your OS specific requirements. Chris Riley did a great video on upgrading the 3DChameleon's firmware over on his YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7YNcXE9gfU&pp=ygUVM2QgY2hhbWVsZW9uIHByaW50aW5n (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7YNcXE9gfU&pp=ygUVM2QgY2hhbWVsZW9uIHByaW50aW5n) Also, check out his step by step instructions here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-OkkDjHdcTeN9WLbiT6VLYRj_YzjyalHT2G0v7SsgG4 (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-OkkDjHdcTeN9WLbiT6VLYRj_YzjyalHT2G0v7SsgG4) Don't forget to like and subscribe to his channel. He has other great videos on the 3DChameleon as well. Bill

The 3D Chameleon uses a spring tension cam mechanism using a small 2.5mm x 10mm spring and a 100% solid infill 3D Printed part with a "B" imprinted on it. That part can wear over time, or in the the worst case, can actually break. If that occurs, you can print out a new part using this file. You can print it with 100% infill using either PETG or PLA. Here's the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181728

If you're using a printer with multiple physical extruders, there is an issue with the latest version of PrusaSlicer in that they're no adding a Tool (T{extuder}) command AFTER the tool change gcode is inserted. The issue is that our code is changing it to the selected code in our Tool Change, and they're then overriding it. There doesn't appear to be a way around it in their settings, so I wrote this little post processor that switches all T{extruder} commands back to T0. (If you have the 3D Chameleon on another extruder, simply edit the code to replace the T0 with your specific extruder number.) Attached is the code... simply use the following post processor command to run it: "C:/Program Files/Python38/python.exe" C:\Users\Username\Desktop\T0Only.py Be sure to replace the Username with your correct username, and use the correct location for your installation of Python.

Hi Folks, On the Ender 3 V2, the normal switch mount has the switch too far towards the back of the printer. Under normal circumstances, that doesn't effect anything, but if you have an automatic bed level sensor added to it, then the two will interfere with each other. I now have my switch at 230mm on the Y axis by making a new custom switch holder for the Ender 3 V2 that extends it further forward to allow for printers with ABL as well. You can find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4663605 (Look in the files for the Ender 3 V2 specific one.) Bill

Please feel free to ask any questions, post your creations or help others out! Bill