I corrected the text.

That's a mistake... it should say to remove it if YOU HAVE a cutter. You need it if you don't have a cutter. Bill

I might add, the expansion capability is already in this release of the firmware, you can spot it by looking for the Sparkfun I/O expansion code... it's already got most of the filament runout sensors included. This same code block and I/O expansion board can be used to "sense" the filament position to do the auto calibration. You can add 4 filament runout sensors prior to the 3DChameleon and it will automatically detect them and enable additional features, like the "skip to random" or "skip to next" filaments, which will both ignore the unloaded filaments. This allows for things like using up all the filament off of a spool and automatically switching to the next spool. (If your firmware supports it, like Klipper or Octoprint do.)

I never said that, what I did say below was that this is one of the things that will be enabled by this release. There will be a big simplification of the system as well an expansion capability that allows others to also add on to it.

No... it's nothing like that at all... The plan is to simplify and expand the design even farther. And those "add-ons" are actually enabled by this release. Along with our current ideas, we will be able to incorporate other's ideas as well. Bill

Since your printer is Klipper based, you actually have a much better installation path than without it. The 3DChameleon is designed to be universal and will easily install on your printer, however, with Klipper, you can actually use some of the community developed macros to get a lot more out of it. Bill

For the older mechanical system on an Ender 3, here's a video of it in action and in the comments you can see in the video description a link to the profile used. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBzq4Lhg4Jc And in addition to that, here is one with the Sovol SV-06's mechanical system. The video contains a link (first pinned comment) to the Printables page and in that, you'll find the Prusa profile for it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGWliN2bAlA

The tool change gcode needs to press (or in your case trigger the GPIO) for a certain amount of time for each command. If the commands are too long or too short, you won't get the appropriate responses from it. Each command is around 1/2 of a second apart, and you can tell them by the pulses. 1 pulse = command 1, etc. The first thing the unit should do is home the 3DChameleon with 7 pulses. The maximum number of pulses you should ever use on the Mk4 is 9... but if you're going over that, then clearly it's not pressing the button in the proper sequence. Take a look at the bottom of the Tool Change GCode page and you'll see the available commands. After the first command request, there will be two optional additional button presses, one for unload and one for loading. All timing is done through G4 delay commands... G4 P1000 is a 1 second delay (1000 milliseconds) or G4 S1 (1 second)... you need to tune those commands so they work. Lastly, you need to make sure your gcode is properly "pressing" and "unpressing" the gpio... if they're backwards, it'll start out pressing it, which won't work either. Bill

Please see the above answer... stay tuned! You'll be happy. Bill

Follow these steps:

You'd need to post your tool change gcode to understand what is happening. However, in general, it only cuts the filament once you press the button to select a new color. So, your tool change gcode should back out the filament to the proper cutting location prior to that first button press. Once you do that, if it needs to cut, it will, then you press it the second time for the filament to retract. Bill

The biggest change on a Flashforge machine is that their origin (x=0, y=0) is at the center of the build plate, not at a corner like most other machines, so you need to make sure your gcode includes that offset. For example, the X ranges from -110 to 110... and the switch will be at (X-110, Y110), that is, x to the left, y to the rear to hit a button back there. You'll need to modify any generated gcode used to account for their coordinate system. Bill

Mode 3 is for the older Mk3 version... your unit is an Mk4, which doesn't have modes. In fact, it acts like it's in Mode 3 all the time, because that is the only one supported on the Mk4. Bill

The add-ons are all open source and can be found on the Getting Started forum. We do not sell, nor intend to sell those add-ons, but some of them have already been fully published, and others are on the way. There is nothing that you can not do with Klipper, today, however. As for the Mk4, you don't need to buy anything, you can simply download the models from Printables and print your own. We are 100% open sourcing it in the near future... but most parts are already available, and for what we haven't released yet, others have, for example the Y adapter can be replaced with the Bambu A series printer 4-1 adapter and the firmware/electronics can be replaced with Klipper macros. At this time, we're not ready to announce our future products plans, but stay tuned. Bill

Neither one of those printers need custom mounts... the ones included with the kit should work just fine. Just follow our standard installation video. Bill

Oh yeah, that looks perfect! Make sure you have the proper voltage going to that servo. I can see the label on it and you'd need the buck booster to boost that to the required voltage to drive that properly. Bill

Actually, check you email on 10/12... I did respond to it. What issues are preventing it from running? (Aside from trying to use the filament sensor?) Bill

There are several versions of the 3DClippy, but the ones we publish have 3D Models that are fully assembled in the Tinkercad models... so be sure to check there. As for instructions on how to hook it up, we have detailed instructions in the Getting Started forums pinned posts. Bill

There never was one that was produced with the TMC chips... they couldn't do what we wanted. Instead we are going to use the AS5600 magnetic rotary encoder which communicates with the electronics via the I2C bus that we expose through the stock electronics. We haven't released that specific code yet due to time, but it's coming, but the Mk4 upgrade details (which currently include the OLED display and the 3DClippy automatic filament cutter) are already available in the Getting Started forum. Bill

Simply press the button for 10 pulses. If it responds with additional vibrations, it's an Mk2 or Mk3 version. If it doesn't respond, then it's the Mk4 firmware. If you cycle through several 10 pulses commands, it will respond with 1 or 2 if it's the Mk2 firmware, or 1, 2 and 3 if it is the Mk3 firmware. There are also visible differences... the Mk4 units have a two curved parts on the end to hold the springs as well as vertical cuts between the PTFE tubes... the Mk3 has only the curved parts and the Mk2 has just straight separations between the two parts on the end. You can always download the Mk4 parts and firmware and upgrade any Mk2 or Mk3 to the latest spec. Bill