Here's a sample of my code when we first discovered this, note the F Speed differences: {if next_extruder==0} G0 X415 F1800; dwell for .5 seconds - adjust this to match your machines single pulse time {endif} {if next_extruder==1} G0 X415 F900; dwell for 1.0 seconds - adjust this to match your machines two pulse time {endif} {if next_extruder==2} G0 X415 F675; dwell for 1.5 seconds - adjust this to match your machines three pulse time {endif} {if next_extruder==3} G0 X415 F450; ; dwell for 2.0 seconds - adjust this to match your machines four pulse time {endif} G0 Y427 ; back off the button G0 X430 F90;was 70 and worked good wait for it to happen ; adjust this time to match the actual tool change time - subtract the time it takes to load for the last 1" into the extruder G0 E40 F1500 ;  was40    << -------   ADJUST THE E50 VALUE TO STOP IT RIGHT AFTER IT LOADS INTO THE STOCK EXTRUDER (50mm is the default) ;                ADJUST THE F1500 TO MATCH THE SPEED OF THE FILAMENT FROM THE 3D CHAMELEON ;                NOTE: This defaults should work, but you can always tune them to be perfect. G0 X422.5 F1800;       These are just a half second extra reloading time... just to make sure G0 X415 F1800;         ; reload filament all the way into extruder G92 E0 G0 X430 F2000 G0 E100 F2000 ; was 35<<<<<-----------  EDIT THIS DISTANCE TO FINE TUNE THE FILAMENT LOADING TO STOP BLOBBING OR UNDEREXTRUSION G92 E0

Yep... that's the right idea. Time the X axis moves to be a clock by adjusting the speed. You can use two variables there... the distance or the speed... both work equally well... but don't forget that acceleration takes into account on both, so the F1800 might not be right to be exactly 150ms... but in that case, our code is very flexible... you have a lot of error time between the button pulses. Bill

I don't do firmware specific code... but all you need to do is make a Klipper macro to emulate the same functions. Perhaps someone in the community can help. Look at the Klipper documentation to see what the relevant commands are and just change the code to them. Bill

Here's a little picture of the proper alignment of the drive gears. Make sure to raise them to the proper level if they're not. Bill

The unit is $179 and international world-wide shipping is $55. Bill

Sure, we ship world wide. I've just searched the entire Google GMail site for beevor or jay.beevor but can't find anything in it except for the notification of this post. So, it seems it's not actually getting out for some reason. Try sending me an email directly to bill@3dchameleon.com... but otherwise you can communicate here as well. Bill

Yes... that's what I do on the Sovol SV-06 version of the 3DClippy code. Bill

We have an entire set of videos (linked to on our home page and the instructions page) on how to set it up on any printer. We do not have specific instructions for any one printer, however, as it's a universal kit. You can see our YouTube playlist here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLs1jpNL7rg7_w_ufJVqMZ4nUdiA1cg38_ Bill

Actually, now that I look at the gcode... what are you pushing out the 10mm of filament into? Is it creating a blob. That would produce strings or blobs, and you're doing it at the button... is that actually the case? As an option, can you make it create that blob into a straight line that is attached just to the back of the purge block, so they're not free. If there are 4 colors, you can purge along the back in 4 spots per color. Bill

Can you remove the extruder motor (4 stop screws) and look at the drive gear? Make sure the grub screw is tight. Bill

I see no reason our standard switch mounts won't work on the front of that printer, it's just a normal Ender style machine. As for the slicer, I highly recommend you use PrusaSlicer with a known good profile and modify it to wiork with 4 colors. Once you have that done, you can move the tool change gcode over to OrcaSlicer. That way you're only tackling one potential issue at a time. The difference between the two are minimal from a learning perspective, since OrcaSlicer is based on PrusaSlicer (through BambuStudio.) Bill

We have the mounts for that printer right here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hvt773tk76X-anycubickobraneomounts Bill

Not on the Mk3... but our new Mk4 firmware will have a fix for that. However, I'd question that number... make sure your tension is set correctly and that it isn't slipping... Confirm that it does it equally on all 4 extruders and that it does it in both directions. If there is any variation between any of them by more than 5mm, then something is wrong. Bill

The 3DChameleon will work with the lever arm just as it is. You need to make sure that your timing is correct so that the extruder starts loading BEFORE the filament from the 3DChameleon reaches it... that way they are both working together to insert the filament into the extruder. As long as your timing is correct, you should have problem with it. (We have several Kobra Neo and Kobra Neo 2 machines here that have no issues at all with loading.) As a side note, there are no modifications ever needed to a printer to get the 3DChameleon to work except for older generation designs that use the old Titan extruder design, which will not even load manually without opening it up. Bill

Sweet!!!

Our board is not open source, however, you can easily just buy a simple 3D printer control board to do the same task. We use two motor controllers driving by a microcontroller... any old 8 bit 3D printer control board will perform the same task. Bill

We do not publish the design for ours, however, you can easily find some on Printables here: https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=4%20to%201%20bowden Bill

Yes, I said our profile already does that... but that's dependent on the version of the firmware you're running AND if you're using that profile with those commands in it. I also don't like having the 3DChameleon push or pull through a filament sensor, as that can create a point of jamming. (Filament runout sensors are not designed for backing out filament, and it can cause issues with some tip shapes.) I just prefer to bypass it and either disable it via software, or insure it's disabled via the piece of filament. Technically, I run it with both. The last thing I want to happen is to have a very long print stop because it thinks it ran out of filament. Bill

You need to disable it because it will interfere with the operation of the 3DChameleon. You simply leave it in place, but place a piece of filament in it, or disable it in the gcode. (Our gcode already does that.) The K1 has the sensor on the outside, but the K1 Max has it on the inside. I personally bypass it on all my machines and just leave a piece of filament inside it to keep it from triggering the filament runout routine that is built in. (You don't want it pausing because we removed the filament, because we do intentionally, but the default code will pause the print, which we can't un-pause.) Bill

CoreXY is just a Cartesian printer... with fancy belts. You can put it on any axis. If you need to position it on one axis, you just need to add it to the holding location, which is by design. (We have one code base for all printers.) Bill