The Mk2 is not recommend for a direct drive configuration, as you don't have a way to increase the tension. So, loading and unloading your stock extruder is the best option. As for the tips, the 3DClippy is a great solution to your problem. You'll need two M4x20 screws, two M3-8 screws and the knife blade (which can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/REXBETI-Utility-Retractable-Cardboard-Mechanism/dp/B07DXTP9M9) Optionally, you can simply buy our $13 upgrade kit, which will upgrade your Mk2 to the Mk3 mechanically, and it includes all the extra parts necessary for the 3DClippy installation. (You'll need to print the parts and supply some superglue, but we include all the hardware.) Bill

By the way, that's a cool model, but you'll need infill turned on for it to successfully print. Bill

It can only print two layers at a time if the last color is the same as the first color on two subsequent layers. The normal flow is to switch to each color for every layer... only at the end and start of a layer can they actually match. That's normal behavior. Bill

What do the tips of the filament look like? Tip shaping is the most important thing that needs to be take care of so that the filament doesn't swell and jam in the rest of the system. See our FAQ #10 for hints. Also, take a look the 3DClippy and see if that can help if tip shaping is an issue... with it, you can simply cut the tips off without worrying about trying to shape them. Lastly... about the possible bug... can you show me what you mean in a video, or give me steps to reproduce it. Also, are you sure you're not in some other mode of operation... there are 3 modes. Mode 1 is extruder replacement mode... Mode 2 is extruder load/unload and Mode 3 is identical to Mode 2, except that it requires you press the buttons for as long as the filament needs to move... so it overrides the default 10/11 inch unload/load and instead allows you to set it to any distance. Also, make sure the commands you're sending are timed correctly so that you hear the vibrations indicating which command is active. Take a look at the bottom of the Mk3 GCode Generator Page for details. Bill

You're just updating the tool change GCode one time replacing the tip shaping code with the tip cutting code. Once it's set up, you never have to change it.

Great start!!! Ok... as for the stringing... two things... in the first lines of your tool change gcode, make sure you do a retract of about 5mm. G0 E-5 F2000... that will clean up a lot of it... and second... when you're reloading the filament... move the tool head right over the purge block... so any oozing will go directly into it. Also... as for the purging... make sure you back it out so that only about 5mm or so is cut off with the 3DClippy... again, G0 E-30 or some distance. You can easily measure it by loading the filament all the way... and cutting it off, then backing it out. Compare before and after distances to see how much was removed... then you can simply back it out that distance less the distance you want to remain. I like to leave between 5 and 10mm so only that amount is purged. Bill Bill

Oh, I might add, the tension is also used to set the tension for the different modes of use of the 3DChameleon. For example, to simply load and unload your existing extruder doesn't require much tension (the default settings,) but if you're using it in Mode 1, Extruder Replacement mode, then you'll want to increase the tension (maybe to the highest) to allow it to be able to force the filament through the hot end, which the normal tension settings doesn't do. (Also, the tension is dependent on installation method... long or bent PTFE tubes naturally have higher drag forces than short straight ones, so tension needs to be accounted for there as well.) I'll put this all together in a video soon, but in the mean time, please feel free to email me and/or post here and ask any questions as well. Bill

The theory is very simple. The long axis (up and down) of the grid is just adjusting the amount of pressure the springs apply. The side axis is adjusting the space between the bearing is to the drive gear. If, for example, you have selected filament 1, but filament 3 is also moving, it means that filament 3 is too close to the drive gear... so moving it farther way by .25mm will give it the clearance is needs to not touch the drive gear while it's not selected. But, now if filament 1 is slipping (or not moving the full distance) then you can increase the amount of spring tension (by selecting a tensioner higher up the scale.) Note, these are very subjective and depend a lot on the filament that is used. For example, if you're always printing with a soft TPU, you might select a very low tension, but a high strength carbon fiber PC might need a high tension. And you can easily mix and match them... have the first 3 with high strength and the last one with a medium strength, for example. By default, we have a middle of the ground tensioner selected with 1mm of compression and 0 offset on the bearing placement. The plan is to do a video on this exact thing... but I just haven't got around to doing it yet. Bill

Hmmm... high pitch ringing is a new one... can you post a video of it? As a side note, can you snap a picture of the top of our electronics... I want to make sure the stepper motor current is correct... it should be slightly rotated to about the 1 o'clock position, instead of straight up and down, and I want to make sure. Bill

Can you send me your Prusa Profile? Is this related to the previous one? I can look it over and see if I see anything incorrect. (The 3MF that you're printing should have everything I need in it.) Bill

Can you send me the gcode file you're printing? Is it possible the file is incomplete? I've only seen it when the SD card has been removed before the file is completely written to it. Bill

There are two options... you can use the Creality motor, or you can simply swap the center two wires (cross over) to match the Ender's wiring. The wires are color coded, but not in any order... but if they were Blue/Green/Red/Black, then on the motor end, simply swap the wires to Blue/Red/Green/Black. Do not do both ends... just the motor's end. To remove the pins, simply use a sharp blade and lift up the tab holding them in... the pins will slide right out. Once the pin is out, push back down the tab and insert the other pin. Either option will work. Bill

That's just a piece of black electrical tape. I didn't have any zip ties to tie it to the cable, so I used the tape. There's no reason why it won't work for your case just to hold it together as well. Bill

Homing is exactly as you describe, however, the unload is only 10", whereas the load is always 11". The difference is taken up in the extruders movement of the filament as well. That is by design. Bill

We have several adapter plates for the Ender series of printers. Check out our Tinkercad page for some that might work. I don't know which specific extruder your printer has, but they're all pretty similar and easy to adapt to. https://www.tinkercad.com/search?q=3dchameleon Bill

Well... the iCloud link is actually just to a JPG, not a video. But your tips look perfect to me. When it's getting stuck, is it when it's backing it back out or when it's loading it? Also, are you sure the extruder is backing the filament out all the way before the 3DChameleon button is pressed to to remove it? If the 3DChameleon is pressed too early, the extruder can still have a hold of the filament, which will cause the 3DChameleon to not be able to move it all the way. Bill

In my Ender 3 V2, I used both of our cables... and just ran the extruder cable directly into the electronics and connected it to the extruder connector inside them. That made a nice clean installation. The stock cable, I just removed from the harness. Bill

Also, turn down the F4000 speeds for the stock extruder on the loading part at the end of it... F4000 might be too fast for it as well... so try backing it down to a more reasonable level for your extruder.

It sounds like you simply need to change the Tool Change GCode speeds. There is a line in the Tool Change GCode that looks like this: G0 E75 F1500 ;      << -------   ADJUST THE E50 VALUE TO STOP IT RIGHT AFTER IT LOADS INTO THE STOCK EXTRUDER (50mm is the default) ;                ADJUST THE F1500 TO MATCH THE SPEED OF THE FILAMENT FROM THE 3D CHAMELEON Note the last comment... change the F1500 to match the speed of the filament from the 3D Chameleon. You can tune it down so that the speed matches what the 3D Chameleon is pushing it at. Try a value of F500, for example. Bill