It's just something that the vendor of the power adapter includes if you want power something like an Arduino with it. Bill

I'm confused as to what you're talking about... the Sprite Extruder is a hotend as well, so there shouldn't be any long distances at all... The only distance you need to deal with is the distance between the Sprite's drive gears and the nozzle tip... which is only about 65mm or so. The distance should never involve the Y adapter... that's the timing one, which you have as 30.6 seconds.

Yes, it's the most advanced installation possible, however, it's been done many times. Check out our YouTube channel and look for the Mk2 advanced playlist. It's basically the same installation we do on the Prusa Mini, which you can also see in our videos. Bill

Here's a gcode primer... don't over think it... it's a very easy thing to understand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TByiMNduss&pp=ygUVaW50cm9kdWN0aW9uIHRvIGdjb2Rl

If you're getting a clog in the metal part, you need to back the filament out farther when you're letting it cool down, or just back it out very rapidly without letting it cool... maybe that's the issue. When you unload the filament using the menu, what process is the machine using and what do the tips look like? If that provides you with a filament you can reinsert, then duplicate that method in the gcode. Bill

Also, can you take a picture of the back of the extruder? Which part is intefering with the switch?

I need to see a video... you just threw in a new piece of information I've not had before... about it trying too fast. Also, if it's loose in the tube, it's not getting stuck... so where is it getting stuck. Did you try adjusting the tension? Are you sure you're in the proper mode? Do you have a video of it running... that would be a million times better than trying to understand this without context. Bill

Can you increase the distance it's backing it out? Are you sure it's getting caught on the PTFE tube? Can you try it without the PTFE Tube to see if it let's go? Bill

Yep... try a larger ID tube then. Your PTFE we shipped with it should be good. You can take the filament tip and push test it in to the normal PTFE tubes to see if it fits ok. Bill

Hmmm... that filament tip shape looks near perfect. Which tube is it getting stuck at? And do you know if they flared at the opening? Do you happen have a larger inner diameter tube for that particular area, by chance? (Some of our kits included a 1.8mm ID tube in the lower section, but also included a larger 2.0mm ID... as well as all the long tubes, which you can use a small section of as well.) Bill

There is a whole lot of space right where your blue PTFE is below the extruder... that looks like plenty of space to fit it. Bill

Here's a picture of where I think the problem might be. Try halving both of these values to see if it helps it. If this distance is longer than your actual exruder to tip length, it can potentially cause what you're seeing. The filament needs to be fully solidified before it gets to the point it's ejected... so you can halve these values, but also slow it down by using a smaller F parameter (feedrate.) Oh, that M107 line below them can be removed... the fan is internal on these hot ends, so it's safe to leave it on.

Ok... I think might be chasing the wrong thing. The 3DChameleon never pulls the filament out of the extruder... the extruder must back it out all the way before the 3DChameleon can extract it from the top of the extruder. If the filament isn't being ejected by the extruder, then that is your problem... no matter how hard the 3DChameleon can pull, it can never pull hard enough to pull it out of a stopped extruder. Do this... disconnect the 3DChameleon and just use a normal filament in it when a color change is happening... during tip shaping, you'll see the filament move up and down a bit... it will then back out. At that point, you should be able to easily pull the filament out by hand... if you can't do that, then the backing out code is incorrect... it's possible the distance entered isn't enough to actully extract it all the way, or the move was too fast and the filament wasn't solidified enough to keep it's shape and is causing the blob... make sure your distance between the extruder and the nozzle is correct, and that the tip shaping isn't driving it out too fast. There area few points in the Tool Change Tip Shaping Code where it can move it 50-80mm... but if your tip to gears distance is shorter than that, it's possible that's the issue. Try shorten those distances by half. The basic idea of tip shaping is that we need to get the filament out of the hotest part of the hot end, and slowly allow it to cool and solidify in the upper/cooler portion of the hot end before it's fully extracted from drive gears fully. The filament, when done correctly, will have a nice bullet shape without any strings. Bill

Our FAQ #10 talks about what look for in tip shaping. The 3DClippy is on Thingiverse and Tinkercad... it's 100% open source, so you can modify it to suit your needs.

So, there is a little pin that sticks out on the back of the K1's extruder... that is the only thing that engages the switch... and it only does it when the extruder is all the way over to the left. If your printer isn't pressing the switch with that pin, then we just need to adjust the position of the switch. Can you get a picture of the back of the extruder and a distance on how far to move the to switch left to avoid the homing of it? BIll

Here's how they're assembled:

Please let us help you... pics or videos always help us understand what you're seeing. I have K1, here's a picture of my mount. But I don't understand the difference betweent he K1 and the Max without being able to see it. Bill

The Tension Tuning Sliders here will increase the pressure applied to the filament. Also, there is a whole set of them to fine tune it, but these are the max settings I recommend for it. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3fdxGrMffso-3dchameleon-bearing-carriers-for-direct-drive-mode-1 As for getting a clogged nozzle... that's not the 3DChameleon... it doesn't pull out of th extruder... it only pulls it back once the stock extruder ejects the filament... this is back to the tip shaping tuning that needs to be done per filament. Otherwise, I recommend using the 3DClippy filament cutter... it's very easy to adapt to any printer... the core unit doesn't change, only the mounting. Take a look at the Tinkercad model for the Sovol SV-06... it's the style your printer would more than likely use. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gxoYUu1SaSA-3dchameleonwith3dclippysovolsv06

So, you've installed the extruder 180 degrees out... it normally exits the side you have the 3DChameleon's Y adapter on. Technically, it'll work that way, but you'd need to flip all the wires in the cable to the motor to reverse it... it's better if you rotate the extruder so the Y adapter goes into the black PTFE connector like in this image: Bill

I see nothing wrong this this gcode (except the note below)... are you sure you're not failing somewhere else? When you say it's not working... what specifically are you seeing? Also, if you're using Mode 3, why do you have such a short movement... 8 seconds indicates 8 inches... there's no way that can be valid... Mode 2 moves 10 inches... and Mode 3 is designed for longer distances. The path from top of the Y adapter to the extruder must be 10" or greater for the 3DChameleon to work. If you're really only at 8", then you should use Mode 2 directly. Bill