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Constant failure regardless of how ideal settings and equipment are.
In Support
Bill
Nov 18, 2022
So... do you have the Mk2? If so, the Mk3 (you said you ordered the parts) is a tremendous upgrade over the Mk2 in terms of shear power available. You can even adjust it's tension to suit your needs by printing the tension bearing sliders with varying spring preloads as well as bearing distances. This alone makes the Mk3 a million times better. With that said, the Mk2 had a little weakness in the design that might be contributing to the issues you're seeing if you're not aware of it... do you hear a clicking at all when it's trying to load a color? If so, check to make sure the "flexure" hasn't broken in the B parts... they can be damaged easily and you'll wind up without any tension at all being applied. The Mk3 actually has no flexure to break and relies on a totally different design to handle tension. If yours is broken, you can easily print a new replacement (from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5181728) until your new Mk3 parts arrive. The other thing I'd check is that your extruder can actually load and unload without any assistance... for example... remove the Y adapter and feed filament into the extruder (without pressing it in... just let it touch the drive gears)... then run it forward... does it load? If not, then the tension is too tight still. As for unloading, check the same thing... the extruder should be pushing out the filament all the way before the 3D Chameleon even runs... so the filament should be free (so free that the filament can actually fall out without needing any help.)... that way the 3D Chameleon isn't fighting anything. In both cases, the idea is that the 3D Chameleon isn't trying to do the work... the extruder should already be capable of doing both of these. (If it's the first issue, then adjust the tension to a lower value... if it's the second, then increase your filament retraction distance to make sure it is let go from the stock extruder before the 3D Chameleon presses the button to retract it.) Any videos and pictures you can get of it having an issue will always help me diagnose it. Bill
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sprite pro extruder code suggestions
In Getting Started
mk3 PTFE Tube popped out
In Support
mk3 PTFE Tube popped out
In Support
sprite pro extruder code suggestions
In Getting Started
mk3 PTFE Tube popped out
In Support
changement de couleur
In Getting Started
Bill
Nov 05, 2022
Ok... I can see your Auto Generated GCode has not been corrected to match the proper timing. Please regenerate the GCode... I've updated it to make it better match the timing. Also, my documentation needs to improve on this process... I'm going to record a video this weekend to show how it's done. In summary, there are two ways to get accurate button press timing. The first way is to use the Autogenerated GCode and edit the press times to make the G4 P{time} values to match exactly what your printer is doing. This is the simplest to understand... and you can actually do it by trial and error. The button pulses are about .5 seconds apart...so you can set the times for the buttons to match that... for example, the gcode now uses P500 for 1/2 second for the first extruder, P1000 for the second, P1500 for the third and P2000 for the fourth. That might be too long or too short for your printer. So you can adjust them up or down... for example, if it's too short, you might change them to P600, P1200, P1800 and P2400. They're all always multiples of the first value, however. So a 7 pulse would be P4200 or 4.2 seconds, for example. The second way is to allow the system to time the pulses. The 15 pulse command allows for that. The idea is that you're supposed to use the start gcode and the 15 pulse command to program exactly how long it should be waiting. Please not the 15 pulse timing requirement... it's exactly the same process as above, where you enter the time it takes to do the 15 pulses... but that is the only point you need to do it. All the rest will automatically happen. So... in your case, you might have a block of commands that look like this in your start GCode after you home it: ; button press calibration - place after your homing sequence in the start gcode G0 X99.5 Y199 F2000 ; go to the holding location G0 Y202 ; hit the button G4 P7000 ; waits long enough to trigger the 15 pulses <--- Make sure you tune this actually match your 15 pulse time! (Count the pulses as it presses the button... too many pulses, shorten the time... too few, increase the time) G0 Y199; back off the button G4 S2 ; just wait a second for it to respond - should vibrate 3 times ; ok, here is where we program your P100 timing the rest of the code uses G0 Y202 ; hit the button G4 P100 ; this matches your #1 extruder command G0 Y199; back off the button G4 S2 ; this waits for 2 seconds... it should vibrate once here G0 Y202 ; hit the button a second time G4 P200 ; wait twice as long as #1 command... (same as #2... but the unit factors out any time delays due to motion.) G0 Y199; back off the button G4 S2 ; this waits for 2 seconds... again, it will vibrate in response ; this block should home the unit - if it doesn't, adjust the P100 above until it does G0 Y202 ; hit the button G4 P700 ; this is 7X the P100 value... which is a homing press G0 Y199; let off the button G4 S2 ; wait 2 second for it to happen ; ok - this is the end of the calibration code What this code does is give it two example button press commands... a 1 pulse and a 2 pulse command. The unit then calculates exactly how long it takes for each pulse to occur and maps the internal clock to exactly what your printer is doing. Bill
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