After reading through the forum, I found the link to the tuning sliders and made a copy from your Thingiverse design.
I have printed them, and could use some guidance as to how they will help adjust the feeding. I was having problems with 3 & 4 sometimes both feeding and retracting at the same time. I took the 3D C apart to check to see if I could see anything wrong, and in the process a pin that holds B and C together broke. I found your 3DChameleon B/C Replacement Parts with PTFE Grip
I have printed new sets using that design. I am still in the process of getting everything working. so am going to replace the PTFE tube with new ones, have ordered spare springs ( they like to run away) for the unit and spare bearings so that I can assemble different sub- assemblies to test the tuning sliders. I think the new version that does not use the ferules will be much better. I was wondering if you could do a video on cutting the groves and how to determine what the sliders do to change the feed tension. I find a lot of the users are having similar problems and the information is somewhat scattered in the forum and in the you-tube videos. I watch a lot of the MK2 before I realized that I received a MK3, this is understandable due to the great upgrades you have done, but for someone not familiar it can be confusing.
Thanks for your assistance.
Oh, I might add, the tension is also used to set the tension for the different modes of use of the 3DChameleon. For example, to simply load and unload your existing extruder doesn't require much tension (the default settings,) but if you're using it in Mode 1, Extruder Replacement mode, then you'll want to increase the tension (maybe to the highest) to allow it to be able to force the filament through the hot end, which the normal tension settings doesn't do. (Also, the tension is dependent on installation method... long or bent PTFE tubes naturally have higher drag forces than short straight ones, so tension needs to be accounted for there as well.) I'll put this all together in a video soon, but in the mean time, please feel free to email me and/or post here and ask any questions as well.
The theory is very simple. The long axis (up and down) of the grid is just adjusting the amount of pressure the springs apply. The side axis is adjusting the space between the bearing is to the drive gear. If, for example, you have selected filament 1, but filament 3 is also moving, it means that filament 3 is too close to the drive gear... so moving it farther way by .25mm will give it the clearance is needs to not touch the drive gear while it's not selected. But, now if filament 1 is slipping (or not moving the full distance) then you can increase the amount of spring tension (by selecting a tensioner higher up the scale.) Note, these are very subjective and depend a lot on the filament that is used. For example, if you're always printing with a soft TPU, you might select a very low tension, but a high strength carbon fiber PC might need a high tension. And you can easily mix and match them... have the first 3 with high strength and the last one with a medium strength, for example. By default, we have a middle of the ground tensioner selected with 1mm of compression and 0 offset on the bearing placement.
The plan is to do a video on this exact thing... but I just haven't got around to doing it yet.