I’ve finally got this installed after a few months, but have run into an issue. The first filament is not retracting far enough back to the starting point, so when the next filament loads, it is jamming up against the previous filament.
I have read through many posts and search through all posts for “jam” or “jamming”, and not found a solution to this issue (as far as I can tell). And at the same time, did not find anything in the MK3 Slicer code that might be related. My setup is an Ender 3 v2, with a few mods, including a direct driven extruder. I’m considering going to direct drive with the 3D Chameleon, but am hoping to get this working before I go that path. Before adding this to my setup, I was using Cura Slicer, but have since moved to PrusaSlicer out of necessity :)
The distance from the tip of the extruded nozzle to the center of the stepper motor/drive wheels is 108mm. 4mm was added to that value assuming that the diameter of the drive was close to that, so used 112mm as the distance in the code generator. As best I can tell, this has worked as the first filament has loaded and I’ve printed in one color successfully.
Some guidance on addressing this issue would be appreciated, if not a link to a post that I may have missed that addresses this issue. I can post a video on the filament change issues if that would be helpful to see where the filament gets ”jammed up”.
Machine: Creality Ender 3 v2, Creality Direct Drive Extruder, Minimus Fan Shroud 40x20 Noctua fan, and 80mm fans for MB/PWR. Firmware is MRISCOC/Professional. Octoprint (on Windows 11) and Octo4A (on Samsung S10) used alternatively for printing.
Close to hanging it up for a while. Have found that with the CR Touch mounted and using the professional firmware to build a mesh, the 3D clippy is preventing the movement of the gantry to complete the mesh. Short answer seems to be that this will likely work with stock, but not something heavily modified like mine. I plan to extend my printer in the future to a larger bed. Given time, I hope to be able to revisit this project and get it working. :(
Does this completely replace the generated code for MK3?
It is unclear which line is the line where I'd set the distance from the extruder to the hot end. Is that required here?
I saw your video on YouTube posted in the last 24 hours with the advanced extruder setup on an Ender 3 v2 with the clippy. Would you recommend that over having to mess with the tip tuning? I’ve yet to solve the tuning problem - 10 hours plus into it and still jamming. I can see from the photo below that the tips are still larger than they should be and continue to jam in the tube. But that does appear to be the issue. It also looks like you’ve shortened the tubes from the extruder mounted on top to the hot end. Does adjustments need to be made in the g-code to compensate, or is that irrelevant?
The reason I ask about firmware is that I'm getting these messages in OctoPrint - if they can be ignored, or suppressed, I'm okay with that. I see them each time it tries to change filaments. So it is unclear where they would be coming from.
Is this happening during unloading? If so, you need to do one of two things... 1) follow the tip shaping in our FAQ... 2) eliminate tip shaping altogether and add the 3DClippy t cut the filament between your extruder and hot end. My current design doesn't fit there, but can easily be adapted. The idea is very simple... Cutting the fat or stringy tips totally eliminates the chance of them jamming in the Y adapter... And it speeds up the whole process of the color change.
Search for 3DClippy on Thingiverse or Tinkercad for details... It's open source.