1) Is there any way to have a dual connector extruder that doesn't catch onto the Z axis lead screw? For now I've just rotated the entire extruder 90 degress, but I think that comes with the issue of too much of a bend in the bowden tubes in a couple spots. Or, is there a way to hook 3DChameleon up just a regular single connector? (but I imagine this way, feeding the filament back into the extruder, it would more than likely not line up with the tiny hole and not feed at all. This happens to me all the time when I try and do it myself, even with a diagonally-cut tip...)
2) So no go at all with Cura when it comes to 4 colors? I mean, we're given a Cura profile for the MK2 4 colors, but since Ultimaker printers only have at most 2 exturders, the purge tower plain-out doesn't form right with more than 2 colors. I searched quite a bit to find a solution to this, but unless there's a secret hidden plug-in that fixes this, I couldn't find anything other than Ultimaker employees saying "Sorry bro, we don't need more than 2 colors, so deal". I've always used and liked Cura, and I've been trying to use Prusa instead, but the interface is....soggy garbage compared to Cura. It's tempting to just model my own purge towers and use Cura, but that's obviously extra work.
3) Finally, where exactly do you feed the lines up to when loading up all 4 filaments into the MK2 before the print? Do you put them just past the gears inside the initial 4-way motor, or up to the Y splitter? Can't find any clarification on this. And to add to that, do I need to make sure the MK2 is set to tool 0 before I start a print, or is that handled through the g-code automatically before each print?
Well, I've been trying to get a print to work, and I run into the same issue every time. Anytime there's a filament trying to be moved by the MK2 extruder and it has been formed at the end by the hotend through the custom gcode, the end of that filament has a rough time making it through the bowden tube provided with the kit, and even sometimes gets stuck in the Y splitter itself. I have tried printing with the hot end at 200 and 210, both with the same issue, if that matters at all.
I have a spare piece of Capricorn tubing and some of the tubing given with the MK2, as well as one of the formed ends of the filament made by the custom gcode. This formed end slides pretty well into the Capricorn, but definitely meets a fair amount of resistance going into the tubing given with the MK2. I would say I could just replace the tubing with something better, but that doesn't help with these tips getting stuck in the Y splitter.
Is there a tweak of some kind I can make to the gcode to make these formed tips a little nicer? I notice that while a tip is formed pretty well, there is still a noticeable bulge in thickness for 6 or so millimeters on the end there (1.9 mm thick, according to my calipers).
So the only way to get a print to work now is to babysit the entire print and manually feed or unfeed any filament between color swaps myself if the MK2 is unable to do so alone. And even then, sometimes the filament gets so stuck that I can't even move the filament to where its supposed to be in time to prevent 2 of the filaments colliding into each other in the Y splitter. (and yes, I make sure the current tool selection isn't on the one I'm trying to feed by hand, to make it as easy as possible)
1) Oh, by single or dual connector I meant either there's a a bowden tube connected to just one side, or both sides, of the extruder, respectively. I think I found a printable mount that'll move the extruder over enough to eliminate the issue altogether.
2) RIP Cura... (for more than 2 colors, anyways lol)
3) Ok, I was pretty close to that, was feeding them up to just inside the start of the Y splitter.
Thanks for the quick response! Once I reattach my extruder with this mount, I'm gonna give my first 4-color print a shot!
1) I'm not sure I understand what you're seeing, but we do recommend rotating the extruder on the Ender 3 V2, but haven't seen that issue on the V1. I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say dual connector as opposed to the single connector. Can you post a picture of what you're talking about? 2) Nope... and that's really out of our hands. You can try to do a wall around the part, or a sacrificial part, but to be honest with you, I stopped using Cura because I found the PrusaSlicer to be way superior. I'm also using Kiri:moto a lot as well, as it does full color support (and curiously will also use the Cura gcode we create with the gcode generator) and they keep developing on it. 3) They should always be loaded to 1" before the start of the Y adapter. Also, you don't need to have a particular color selected, as the first time it runs, it will automatically reset itself to extruder #1.