hope everyone is doing well
I am gonna share my experiance and how I got my 3DC working after almost 3 months of tinkering and modifying on my printer trying multiple things to get it working reliably, I know probably a lot faced issue after another but hopefully this helps alot
I am gonna list things to help you build it correctly and this is not a starting guide this is for someone who already built it and followed bill's guide or someone else's guide
First thing
I highly recommend mounting your 3DC on the back of your printer otherwise it will keep dragging on the table

second thing I recommend inserting a PTFE where the filament goes in as in the picture above

You need a filament rewinder system (otherwise your filament will tangle and break) a buffer might work haven't tried that
I tried two printable rewinders didn't work well with me
so I built The Filamintalist rewinder which worked really well
I will link their github and a BOM from Aliexpress I found useful and easy to build yours
BOM:
the seller also sells a drybox + hygrometer


Now installing the Clippy
I got a servo from Aliexpress which was rated 7v
the mistake I did I didn't pay attention to the rotation of this servo so it was going anticlockwise and I needed it to go clock wise so I had to open it up reverse it's wires with soldering iron
I will link it just in case you want
I also needed a buck converter the 3DC couldn't provide enough voltage to it for some reason
(for the servo you need to follow bill's explanation you will need to swap some wires on the connector)
Red and black/brown go to the buck converter
Yellow/Orange goes to the 3DC for signal
I have my servo set to 7.2v wich has enough power to cut easily
the mount I modified bill's mount a little bit I added two rings just where the cutter passes so it doesn't cut the PTFE as mine was slipping alot

this is the TinkerCad file for it
I recommend adding M3 heat inserts where the servo mounts as with uses the threads will come loose (Printed with PETG) maybe ASA will work better
follow bill's method to mount the clippy it's very simple
Now even after this I had some issues where the filament won't load properly and get stuck just at the start of the extruder, I tried 2mm and 2.5 PTFEs both didn't work so what I did
I removed the bowden fitting from the extruder (it's a press fit not glued or screwed)
got a 2mm drill bit and drilled untill where gears mount

3. inserted a small piece of 2mm PTFE and drilled that too so the filament will have smooth passage to the Extruder gears
4 . then reinserted the Bowden fitting
then you need a PTFE around ~ 20mm from the extruder to where the servo mount sets.
now give it a test, attach a small PTFE try it out if filament's go in and out smoothly
What I do is I set my printer to 220 and use gcode to extrude through ur phone
e.g. G0 E50 F300
and it should grab the filament smoothly and then retract it all the way or just use the servo to cut it
once you're sure it goes in without an effort even when the filament is cut flush now attach the TOP PTFE with appropriate length
Something to mention
the clippy mount will bump into the Lid raiser I still haven't tried to print something, I had to remove it until I figure something out for it
the Front and the Right side raisers

now to come to the Gcode
I would like to thank Bill and Alan as their gcode really helped me build and understand mine
I use OrcaSlicer
swapping filaments should be smooth now and the issue I always had is the loading sometimes it loads and sometimes it doesn't but after trying this method it almost always works
the method I saw one of the Voron users do is they purge a chunk of filament and thy get kicked by the extruder
it extrudes around ~100mm and I set my purge tower(Flush Volumes) to 0.2 Multiplier
here is a video explaining what I mean
Make your profile and copy mine but YOU NEED TO ADJUST LENGTHS
things to note
at the moment I am loading my first filament manually I wait for the start Gcode to end I take the filament once it reaches the extruder and I feed it manually "for now"
Starting Gcode
;Start Gcode
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature]
BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature]
M106 S0 ; part fan off
M106 P1 S0 ; aux fan off
M106 P2 S0
;M104 S[first_layer_temperature]
;M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
;M109 S[first_layer_temperature]
;G28
; 3DChameleon Preload Extruder 1
; load filament 1 to extruder
G0 X206 Y216 F4000 ; move to button
; three quick button presses to cancel out any active commands
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P130 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P500 ; wait for 150 ms
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P3400 ; wait for 7 pulses
G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P2000 ; wait for it to home
; select T0
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P550 ; wait for 550 milliseconds
G0 Y215 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P2000 ; all done
; load T0
G4 P500
G0 Y220 F2000 ; press button
G4 P18500 ; load
G0 E25 F2070 ; <<<--- adjust this E value to tune extruder loading
G0 E20 F250
G0 X220 Y210 Z.2 F1000; move to extruders assigned purge line
G92 E0
G0 Y0 E100; purge the extruder.
G4 P2000 ; all done
if your starting filament isn't T0 then just make sure before you print to change the press time on the starting Gcode (I highlighted it in Red)
Machine End Gcode
; End Gcode
G92 E0
; go to holding position to unload the stock extruder
G0 X206 Y216 F10000 ; <<----- EDIT THIS LINE TO SET THE INITIAL LOCATION OF THE BUTTON
G91 ; move to relative mode
M83
;
; add tip shaping here
G92 E0;
; MY TIP SHAPING
G0 Z2 F500
G0 E-20 F3000 ; retract quickly to cold zone
G0 Z3 F500
G0 E-2 F100
M107 ;
G0 Y4 F2000 ; press button
G4 P2900 ; wait for 6 pulses
G0 Y-4 F2000 ; unpress button
G4 P2000 ; wait for it to cut filament
G0 E60 F250 ; push out molten filament
G92 E0
G0 Y4 F2000
G4 P19200
G0 Y-4
G4 P400
G90
M83
BEEP
END_PRINT
Before Layer change G-code (similar to default)
Change Filament G-code
I hope this was helpful for K1s out there
Excuse my english I hope I delivered my message clearely
share with me your thoughts and questions
now here are successful prints I did ranging from 30-500 color changes
I know the bottom looks messy I need to make a Poop Collector xD





Would you mind also making a tutorial/video on how to setup orca slicer?
Could you show a more detailed video on the process of drilling and inserting the ptfe tube in the extrude to get a smooth path to the gears. I only have 1 shot and i dont want to mess that part up.
If the printer pushes out 100mm blob why would you need a purge block? Why not just purge enough to change the colour then resume the print?
Great work!!!