I have tried everything I can think of but every time it goes to switch colors the 1st color is stuck in my extruder still just after the gears with a blob. I have tried reseting by holding switch for 22 seconds and get the vibrations confirming. I have tried adjusting the Gcode generated distanced for hotted to nozzle, adjusted nozzle temperatures both lower and higher but nothing works. We need better instructions. Its such a pain watching every video to find one piece of info you need
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To see this working, head to your live site.
Edited:Â Jan 17, 2022
setup issues
setup issues
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Ok... maybe we need to allow the extruder to run backwards while it's pulling out the filament from it... I'd suggest adding some new tool change gcode to include an E-50 command somewhere. (Note, I added the backout command before the G4... but I also reduced the G4 by the same time... so 50mm = 25mm/second = 2 seconds... so S10 now is S8.) G0 X3 Y3 F2000 ; press the button
G0 E-50 F1500 ; run the extruder backwords for 50mm... tune distance and speed G4 S8 ; <<---- INCREASE VALUE (S = Seconds) TIME IF IT DOESN'T UNLOAD FROM THE Y ADAPTER
G0 X-3 Y-3 ; back off the button
So... in looking at your code, I don't see the 55... if E1 is going to the nozzle, then E-40 is the max you're backing out to. Otherwise, E1 is only moving 1 mm forward. (It's important to know if you're in Absolute or Relative mode for the extruder... so look for the M83 and M82 commands which are what change that.) If you're in absolute mode, then your code needs to back out to at least E-55 to be at the correct location. If it's in relative mode, then the E1 command isn't correct... as it'll need to reverse all the - (minus) commands... so E-20 + E-10 = E-30... so an E29 would put it back to 1mm. Let's follow along in both relative and in absolute mode (assuming both M92 E0 is present before this block.) and see where the position is: Relative (M83) Absolute (M82) E-20 E-20 E-30 E-10 E-29 E-1 E-49 E-20 E-59 E-10 E-58 E1 E-68 E-10 E-67 E1 E-77 E10
E-78 E1
E-93 E-15 E-137 E-40
So, in both cases, they don't end up at the magic E-55 position. Let's look try adjusting it to this: M92 E0 ; force the E value in memory to be zero as a starting point M83 ; make sure we're in E absolute mode G0 E-35 F3000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E-55 F500; slowly allow it to cool
G0 E1 F1500 ; blob elimination
; back to tip size
G0 E-35 F3000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E-55 F500; slowly allow it to cool
G0 E1 F3000 ; blob elimination
G0 E-10 F3000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E1 F3000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it
G0 E-10 F3000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E1 F3000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it
; back to 1.8 constriction
G0 E-35 F3000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E-55 F10; slowly allow it to cool
; turn the fan off
M82; go back to relative mode
Also, note that I removed the fan command... if you're using the Y axis, then you won't hit the fan anyway... so both the M106 and M107 commands can be ignored.
In absolute position, the E value is exactly where it will end up, as long as the starting position is at E0 (and when you're first starting, it should be... as long as you specify the M92 E0 command, which our code also does.)
Bill
Yep, that's correct... if you're using a direct drive, however, you'll most likely want a total of less than 50 or 60. You want it to cool before the gears compress it.
G0 E1 F4000 ; quickly ram the filament to shape it
; back to 1.8 constriction
G0 E-30 F4000 ; quickly retract the filament to shape it
G0 E-40 F100; slowly allow it to cool
; turn the fan off
would this mean cooling is at E-70? the -30 and -40 added together?
I saw another post about tuning retraction for the cooling with tip forming. I have an ender 3 with a direct drive orbiter extruder. 80mm for cooling may be pulling it out of the short tubing between gears and the v6 I have. I wonder if I adjust to 60mm will help the forming. testing now. Also, wow you are fast with responses!
So, getting stuck is a filament tuning issue, not anything mechanical with the 3D Chameleon, so resetting it won't help. The basics of blobs are very simple... it's all about making sure your temperature and the distance it moves to the nozzle are correct. Can you show me a picture of the blobs you're seeing as well as some information about what kind of printer and setup you have?